Epic Drive Pt 2: From Beaune to Chades Aigues & a F40 “Moment”

Epic Drive 2017 Day 2: From Beaune to Chades Aigues & A F40 "Moment"

By Karen

Hotels reviewed in this article: Hotel Serge Vieira

We awoke to birds chirping in the trees outside our room and the sun streaming through the windows. We enjoyed double expressos in bed as we checked the day’s routing including where the closest gas station was so we could fuel up. What a great way to start the day!

We had agreed last evening to meet for breakfast at 9am. It seemed like we had just eaten and we were back at it again. We entered the quaint, Bistrot in the former kitchens of the 1750 building with the fire roaring and the sound of laughter in the air. Our Swiss friends had already arrived (it was 9:10) and started breakfast.Another double expresso kick started a delightful breakfast of homemade yogurt, granola, fresh fruit, pain au chocolates, croissants, French stick with pots of fresh butter and herb de provence omlette. Croissants and omlettes just don’t taste the same outside of France.

While the engines warmed, we reviewed the day’s routing, lunch plans and potential stops along the route; and also tested the walkie-talkies. We always ensures the routes are flexible and that there is a faster route or highway route if we need to make up time somewhere for what ever reason. Today that turned out to be a good thing…

After about 45 minutes on the road, we all pulled into the gas station to fill-up. The usual crowd draws thick – after all, how often to you see a Ferrari F40, Ferrari 575, Porsche GT3 and a Porsche Cayman R lined up across 4 gas pumps in the middle of no-where in France? While the French may not ‘value’ investing in super cars the same way say the Swiss or Italians do, they certainly know their cars. However paying for gas in France is always a ‘cluster f**k if you are using foreign credit cards. How can they turn something so simple into something so complicated?

Through the walkie-talkies we could hear ‘engines on’, ‘good to go’ and then discussions on who would be sweeping or leading the pack. My dear husband added ‘ sh*t, the car won’t start’! The guys parked their cars and came over to help push the F40 from the Gas pumps over to the parking spot ahead.

We opened the engine cover & the front clam shell. This rare site only served to attract more people.

What the heck was going on? Was it a dead battery? Check … nope. What about a dead starter motor? …no, not that either… Must be a dead alternator? … nope This was getting crazy, the car had just been serviced. Memories of another holiday when we had to flat bed a Ferrari back to the UK came flooding through my mind. While the Swiss contingent phoned their Ferrari mechanics in Switzerland, SSO called his in the UK. The clouds were growing darker and the crowds thicker. After 15 minutes on the phone with the chief mechanic at Carr’s Ferrari in the UK, we tried what they suggested, carefully, step by step, and finally, the F40 came to life. It turns out the contact between the ignition and the immobilizer had failed. So there we were in a gas station in France, basically hot wiring a Ferrari F40. The main challenge going forward became, we had to hot wire the car every time we started it for the balance of the trip.

The rain stopped, the sun came out and we were off. So not the best start to the day but not a disaster either. The ‘Michelin green’ roads meandered us from town to town with more turns in a mile than Texas has across a 500 mile stretch. We and the F40 were thoroughly enjoing it. The route took us 450 km through Levernois, Autun, Digoin, Vichy, Ambert, La Chaise Dieu, Allègre, Langeac, St. Flour, Chaudes Aigues. There were hair-pin turns that I could barely capture on film. It was one of the best driving days we had.

We reached the village of Chades Aigues, at the foothills near our next hotel :

Hotel Serge Vieira
E COUFFOUR,
15110, Chaudes-Aigues
Tel. : +33 4 71 20 73 85
contact@sergevieira.com
http://www.sergevieira.com/fr/
Karenable rating: 🍾🍾🍾🍾🍾

and by 6pm; we could see our castle in the distance. A long, winding & windy swept road took us there. When we arrived, the wind was still howling and the rain still pouring but the hospitality was invitingly warming. It was actually more like a Michelan Restaurant with 4 over-night rooms than a hotel with a restaurant. Don’t get me wrong, they were contemporary, state of the art hotel rooms. The view from our room of the mountains & the storm was amazing. A quick change from driving shoes to dinner attire and it was time to meet for cocktails.

With thunder & lightening around us, we toasted the day and just how lucky we all were. We agreed on the Tasting Menu wit the recommended Wine Pairing – so no decisions to make. While this might have spared SSO’s brother from choosing the wines, I am not sure it was any less expensive.

After the ‘amuse bush’, we had a tour of the kitchen; it was impeccably clean and organized and the Chef and his sous chefs were proud & passionate about their work.

The food was presented exquisitely, the flavors were extraordinary, & the wine pairings were spectacular.

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Epic Drive 2017 Day 1: Arrivals, Foie Gras, & Wine Wars

By Karen

Hotels reviewed in this article: Château de Courban & SPA Nuxe, Hostellerie de Levernois

We landed Saturday morning at London Heathrow after a 10-hour over-night flight. You’ve got to love BA’s Arrival lounge – there’s nothing better than a few double expresso’s and a hot shower to make you feel human again and to acclimate a 6 hours time zone change.

After picking up the F40 from it’s ‘hotel’, we stopped half way between London and Burgundy in a charming home, turned boutique hotel:

Château de Courban & SPA Nuxe
7, rue du Lavoir Le Château
21520 Courban fr
+33 (0)3 80 93 78 69
http://www.chateaudecourban.com
Karenable rating: 🍾🍾🍾🍾

located on the outskirts of a tiny farming community. When we were told to park out back, we looked at each other and thought we are in the middle of no-where and were not sure about this. As we pulled around to the back, we were relieved with the neighbors: a few Lamborghini’s and other Ferrari’s.

It constantly amazes me to find these gem places in the middle of France. Maybe not Michelin starred but it seemed like they were aspiring to it. Champagne and h’orderves on the terrace around their infinity pool at sun set was a delightful way to end the drive from London and start the France leg of trip. Dinner was exceptional. The presentation was as gorgeous as the food. Fresh Flowers on every table, crisp white linens, silver, crystal and porcelain. Gourmet food is clearly the top priority in France. Breakfast was equally delightful.

Rested and well fed, we were off to Beaune to meet everyone at the Relais & Chateau’s hotel:

Hostellerie de Levernois
Rue du Golf
F-21200 Levernois
Tél. +33 3 80 24 73 58
levernois@relaischateaux.com
https://www.levernois.com/en/
Karenable rating: 🍾🍾🍾🍾🍾

This is one of those gourmet restaurants with rooms. One of our Swiss friends has been telling us about this place for years. He and his wife frequent it a few times a year for an exquisite meal to celebrate life, birthdays, anniversaries.

The vast manicured grounds meet you at the entrance of the property and follow along-side you all the way to the front of the hotel (and beyond). If you look closely, you will find elegant lawn furniture tucked discreetly in under trees to laze in the shade and read a great book or just be.

SSO clocked their outdoor terrace – perfect as we had not had lunch yet and didn’t want a full-on lunch as we knew we had dinner reservations in their Gourmet Restaurant.

The waiter told us there was no lunch menu per say on the Terrace but he would see what he could do for us. In the meantime, I enjoyed un coup de Champagne. ‘Do for us” turned out to be some local foie gras and jambon.

In the distance you could hear the roar of the other supercars arriving. We knew SSO’s brother had borrowed a Porsche GT3 (they had to get luggage to fit) but we weren’t sure what our Swiss friends would be arriving in. Pulling up the drive behind the Porsche GT3 was a Porsche Caymen GTR and a Ferrari 575. The 3 cars trundled down the stone lane, through a narrow, green hedge tunnel to the parking lot. Impressive line-up – the camera’s were flashing (not just ours).

The gang joined us. They preferred to compare the local Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet so I joined suit. Reconnecting after a couple of years, there was a lot to talk about. Lots of laughs, lots of Montrachet, lots of pictures. The afternoon slipped away from us and it was suddenly time to get ready for dinner.

We met in their bar, in the background there was someone playing a grand piano. How elegant. We asked the waiter to bring the wine menu as SSO’s brother, while not a sommelier, could be and loves pouring over the wine binders. Despite the teasing, in all seriousness, his cellar back in the US could give any of these cellars a run for their money. The story-telling and laughter continued. Great friends and family are a key ingredient to a great life.

Our table was ready in the understated but a very elegant dining room. The Chefs and their immaculate kitchen were in view of our table which added to the ambiance that evening. The food was outstanding. It’s incredible the pride of the Owners, the Chefs and the Staff. We met them all & enjoyed their comments, stories and recommendations throughout the courses of dinner.

In addition to fine wines, another passion of SSO’s brother is French Cheese. That’s a bit of an issue as SSO cannot even stand the smell of cheese. So over time we have set ‘rules’: no more than 15 minutes discussing and making his cheese selection and no more than 15 minutes to enjoy it. And so the tradition continues.

After a wonderful evening, we took a stroll through the manicured park enroute back to our room. The moon was shining brightly guiding our way. When we got back to our rooms, the Relais & Chateau evening service had done its thing: Bed turned down, water at each side of the bed, fresh fruit plate and of course, the towels all refreshed, a spritz of lavender filled to air to ensure a good night’s sleep.

Next Up – Day 2: Bourgogne to Bordeaux: From Beaune to Chades Aigues with a Ferrari F40 in distress……

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Epic Drive 2017: Bourgogne to Bordeaux

By Karen

I am the Karen of karenable and am pretty much everything my husband describes. You will be convinced by the end of this series that brings you inside a one-week trip from Bourgogne to Bordeaux with us, a few of our closest friends and family who all share a passion for supercars, traveling and wining and dining in Michelin starred restaurants. In this first blog, I will share the Plan: the who, the how, the where and the when.

The travel group was comprised of us, SSO’s brother and his wife and 2 near & dear friends from Switzerland. How dear is a Swiss friend that ‘lends’ your brother a Porsche GT3 for a week? A loving brother who lets his wife to fly ahead and spend a few days shopping in Geneva?

You might be familiar with our collection of McLaren’s, Porsche’s, Maserati and Ferarri’s. His younger brother also has a Ferrari. The Swiss gents each have a very impressive collection of Ferraris & Porsches. This is just their current collections – it doesn’t include their past or what they have on order for the future. On this particular trip we took the Ferrari F40.

Our Ferrari F40 has been renting a room at a very discret supercar ‘hotel’ outside of London. When we arrived the F40 was sharing a room with a beautiful Series 1 Jaguar E-Type. The only predicable downside of the F40 is the ‘boot’ space. It limits us to travelling with 2 duffle bags, in total. It just requires very careful wardrobe planning; mix & match evening wear and clothes that can be rolled and not wrinkle. Thank goodness there is Lululemon by day and Missoni, Hermes scarves (that double as tops) & Issey Miyake by night. Add a travel size La Mer and I’m good to go. It’s never been a challenge for SSO. Jeans, t-shirts, his BV shoes and Lora Piana blue jacket; job done.

When mapping the route from Bourgogne to Bordeaux, we did not use Google Maps or Waze. We weren’t interested to get from A to B the fastest way. The real enjoyment of a supercars is driving the great ‘green’ roads on the Michelin maps. It’s about the journey not the destination (well not exactly!) But in this case, the driving on great roads was a core objective of the trip. People who are passionate about driving get it – that is when driving is at its best and most enjoyable. Also for the passenger.

Flying in and out of big cities for a few days can be fun. We have done a lot of that, and continue to do as the Bucket List is long and alive. But the real gems are the little towns and villages barely on the map. Certainly none that most people have ever heard of. Most are unexpected. The need for a bio break or caffeine fix can find you in the quaintest village where the locals come out in groves at admiration and awe at the cars (not us!) Some of the best meals were completely unexpected in a small little bistro that you would barely think to go into let alone make it a 2 hour ‘pitstop’.

With but a few exceptions over 20 years, Relais and Chateau has never let us down. Consistently high standards, elegant, understated, exceptional quality (high threat count linens, thick plush towels & robes, fresh flowers, signature amenities) and exceptional service – all the little things taken care of without asking. It is our go to when looking for accommodation at a destination. It’s not just the quaint rooms but also the manicured grounds, the special areas inside and out for cocktails, their gourmet breakfasts and of course, their extensive wine collections & Michelin Starred Dinners that we cherish all night. This is not a plug for R&C, just the facts.

Tomorrow, the next blog:

Day 1: The Sound of the Arrivals, The Taste of Fois Gras & Chassagne-Montrachet vs Puligny-Montrachet …

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Summer Recommendations for Every Budget - 2018 Edition

I original wrote a short blog on summer recommendation for different budgets six years ago (the original blog is attached below). Recently I was asked by a group in Australia for an update. As I am now based on the west side of the Atlantic, the budgets are now in US $ and I have given a few American cars more consideration. I have also extended the time frame to go back to 1970.

The 2018 list, starting with the more modest budgets is:

$15k-25k range: Porsche 911 (996), Maserati GranSport. It’s hard to go wrong recommending a Porsche. In terms of bargains these days, the Porsche 911 (996) offers tremendous performance and value. 996s have taken the place of the 993s at the bottom of the 911 price ladder currently but that doesn’t mean they aren’t still terrific driver’s cars. In this price range you can find a huge selection of 996s. The Maserati GranSport is another car that had a spot in our garage about a decade ago. In sport mode, the GranSport comes alive and responds well to being pushed. The Ferrari supplied V8 that sits in the nose is wonderful to hear sing and provides plenty of grunt. Of the early 21stcentury Maseratis, the GranSport is the best of the breed.

$25-50k range: Jaguar F-Type, Dodge Viper. The F-Type in my humble opinion is the most fun to come out of Coventry on four wheels since the misunderstood XJ220 ceased production back in 1994. My personal preference is the V6S convertible with an 8-speed auto gearbox with paddles. Relatively high production numbers mean there are always plenty available so finding a good one should not be too hard. I added the Dodge Viper to the list to make sure there was something a bit on the insane side. Raw and single-minded are how I would sum it up but it’s hard not to like anything with 2 seats and a V10 stuffed in the nose. In many ways, the Viper makes most TVR’s seem quite polished. If you’re looking for an adrenaline kick, it’s hard to beat.

$50-75k range: Aston Martin DB9 Volante, Ferrari 308 GTB. There are few cars more elegant and appealing than a drop top V12 Aston. The DB9 is a proper polished Grand Tourer which can also be driven every day. I would rate these as one of the best value per $ on the market right now. The Ferrari 308 GTB is a personal favorite. I believe the early carb cars are the best of the bunch and a well sorted one is a joy to drive. The 308 handles like a go cart. Back country roads and twisty mountain drives are where it shines.

$75-100k range: Maserati Grantursimo Cabriolet, Audi R8 V10. The Maserati Granturismo Cabriolet is another family favorite. The Ferrari supplied V8 is a gem and sounds fantastic. While more GT than Sports car, it is a car you can drive from Paris to Rome via the Swiss Alps in a day and emerge un-battered. The Granturismo is as happy cruising as it is being pushed. In this price range you should be able to find your choice of low miles V10 Audi R8 Coupes or Spyders. The R8 is both impressively quick and quite forgiving. Hence a great choice for a first supercar.

$100-150k range: Ferrari 550 Maranello, McLaren 12C Spider. When the 550 Maranello was launched in 1996, it was the 1st great front engine V12 Ferrari Grand Tourer since the demise of the legendary Daytona back in 1973. While a 550 is capable of handling the Swiss Alpine passes, it is most at home crushing continents. It has ample luggage space for a multiweek road trip, wonderfully supportive seats, and a gearbox that invites you to come play. The 12C Spider was McLaren’s first attempt at a “mass” produced road car. The combination of carbon fibre tub, twin turbo V8 producing 616 bhp, and seven-speed dual-clutch transmission combined to form a package that is still near top in class. Build quality on the 12C improved during the production run with a 2014 being the best of the breed.

$150-200k range: Ferrari 430 Scuderia, McLaren 650S Spider These are two of my favorites. It’s hard to top the experience of driving a 430 Scuderia across the Scottish Highlands. The single clutch F1 gearbox is quick, sharp, & as the last iteration developed by Ferrari, best in class. The Scuderia is a beautifully balanced car that urges you to drive it hard. It’s also the last Ferrari that still feels more analogue than digital. Definitely a future classic. The McLaren 650S Spider was the interim model between the 12C and 720S. The 650S addressed a number of the perceived shortcomings of the 12C and is a better car in a large number of small ways. I have used one as my daily driver for the last 3 years and can’t recommend it highly enough. Hugh amounts of performance, beautifully weighted steering, and the best suspension in its class.

$200-600K range: Ferrari 365 GTB/4 Daytona, Porsche Carrera GT Both of these sit right at the high end of this price range and for good reason. The Ferrari Daytona is one of the greatest GTs ever produced and the Carrera GT maybe the purest driver’s car to emerge from Stuttgart. The V12 in the Daytona is a work of art and produces perhaps the best sound track of any road car. The V10 in the Carrera GT had its roots in a development project originally for F1 and later resurrected for Le Mans. Neither car likes to potter around and both come alive near the speed limit. The Daytona is a work out to parallel park, but handling is light and precise at speed. The Carrera GT’s clutch requires patience to master but rewards when you do. It is hard to go wrong with either.

$600k-1.5M: Ferrari F40, Koenigsegg CCX. The Ferrari F40 makes most 10 ten greatest car list and for good reason. To drive one is to understand why. There is little that the F40 doesn’t do well. It is equally at home on a cross continental road trip, being wrung out on an alpine pass, or at a race track. The Koenigsegg CCX is my favorite of the Koenigseggs. Much more polished and drivable than the early cars but still full of the character and personality one would expect from a small bespoke manufacturer.

Opinions and recommendations are just that. At the end of the day, always buy what speaks to you.

Below is the original list from about 5 years ago. Values on quite a few have changed significantly

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With Spring finally coming, quite few friends and acquaintances’ have recently approached me for advice on what to buy for summer motoring fun. These are normally discussions I quite enjoy and gain quite a few insights from. Most focus on the more modern cars, post circa 1990, as I tend to be more familiar with a wider range of makes and models in this era. My first two questions normally are: what is your budget, and how do you plan on using the car. On the first and for the sake of simplicity here, we will group budgets as £ 15-25k, 25-50k, 50-75k, 75-100k, 100-125, 125-150k, 150-200k, and 200-250k. In terms of use, focus here will be on weekend fun, with the emphasis on it being a great driver’s car. As these are all cars that the person would want for immediate enjoyment, new cars have not been considered. As this is a blog and not a book, I will limit my comments to my top two choices in each price bracket.

Starting at the top of the financial brackets:

£200k-250k range: I found this group to be an easy decision, clear votes for the Porsche Carrera GT and Jaguar XJR-15. The Carrera GT is a huge amount of car for the money and a real bargain (to the extent you could ever call a £250k car a bargain) right now. It is a proper old school supercar with a hugely impressive engine, CF tub, 6 speed manual gearbox, Carbon Ceramic brakes, and a reputation for biting if you don’t respect it properly. The Carrera GT has lots of character and it requires real skill to drive well. The Jaguar XJR-15 is basically a road legal Group C racecar. With a 6 liter V12, carbon tub, offset seating position, and huge AP racing brakes, it doesn’t get any more focused than this. The XJR-15 is a great uncompromised driver’s car.

£150k-200k range: This is another easy one in terms of recommendations. The two best supercars to be launched in the last several years sit in this price band right now and some early examples can even be found for slightly less. Both are V8s, mid-engine, ultra smooth dual clutch gearbox, and have everyday usability. Performance is staggering yet both can crawl through traffic without blowing a gasket or turning into a rolling BBQ. The two recommendations here are the Ferrari 458 Italia & McLaren MP4-12C.

£125k-150k range: I have always found this a much tougher range to make a call in. Looking at the market today, the two that would be the most tempting are the Lamborghini Murcielago/LP640 and the Ferrari 430 Scuderia. Finding a nice Scuderia for sale these days is not easy and there is a very good reason for it, they are great focused driver’s cars that will always put a smile on your face. The Scuderia is the last in the line of the V8 F1 single clutch models and by far the best of the breed. The Murcielago is Lamborghini at its best, large, loud, with tons of presence. Unlike some of the earlier Lambos, the Murci drives brilliantly and does not require physical therapy after more than 10 minutes behind the wheel.

£100k-125k range: Here I would have to go with the unloved and the little known. In terms of £ for performance you are not going to beat the McLaren Mercedes SLR or the Mosler MT900S. The Mosler has the pure driver’s car box smothered, and on the track will blow just about everything else this side of an Enzo into the weeds. In addition to what it can do on the track, the Mosler has excellent road manners and can deal with traffic and speed bumps. The McMerc is just a huge amount of car for the money right now, a nice balance of comfort in the best of the GT tradition with blistering performance. The new upgrade packages offered through McLaren Special Operations address many of the perceived negatives and make it an even more tempting choice.

£75k-100k range: Very tough to make a choice in this range as there are a lot of great options. Top of my recommended list would have to be the Porsche 911 (997) GT3. There is a reason the GT3 has won a ton of awards, it is simply an outstanding piece of engineering that is brilliant on both road and track. Of any 911 range, the GT3 has always been my favorite. For the second choice, I am going to bend the rules a bit and go with a good but not great driver’s car that gets the nod on looks alone. I have always has a soft spot for the Aston Martin DBS.

£50k-75k range: It gets even tougher in this group as there is a wealth of choices. For performance and fun to drive, I would have to give the nod to the Audi R8 V10 and the Porsche 911 (977) Cabriolet. Both are beautifully engineered, well built, and exciting to drive cars. Each has plenty of performance and high limits which make them a blast to push down an empty “B” road on an early Sunday morning. As a wildcard if you need 4 seats, the Ferrari 612 Scaglietti is a fantastic choice. It handles and goes like a car half its size.

£25k-50k range: In the more affordable category are two of my favorite Ferraris, the 360 Spider and the 550 Maranello. On the 360 Spider, personal preference would be for the 6 speed manual. On a nice summer day with the roof down, the sound of the 400 bhp flat crankshaft V8 is enthralling. The 550 Maranello is more than a worthy successor for the Daytona and it seems to only be getting better with age. It is hard to beat a Ferrari V12 and the 550 is one of the best.

£15k-25k range: And finally in the budget category, two old favorites, the TVR Griffith and Lotus Elise. The TVR & Lotus are both hugely fun to drive, can be pushed hard, and have character in abundance. Before buying a Griffith though, taking out a RAC or AA membership is not a bad idea as the TVR can be as frustrating as it is brilliant. The Elise is the car that saved Lotus and for good reasons, to this day it is one of the sweetest handling cars ever produced.

The above is just one Petrolhead’s opinion. At the end of the day, you should buy the car you really love.