Pendry Hotel Chicago: Historic Charm &amp; Modern Sophistication

Why ChicagoCrazy piece of minutia:&nbsp; SSO and I have the same birthday (day and month at least, only the year is different).&nbsp; On my ‘big one’, SSO planned a weekend in NYC to celebrate with our sons and their partners.&nbsp; It was fabulous and the Peninsula Hotel was an outstanding venue for the occasion. This year was SSO’s ‘big one’.&nbsp; So, we reached out to the boys suggesting several different locations to honor SSO’s Birthday including London, Paris, San Diego, NYC.&nbsp; Surprisingly to us, they came back with a different option, Chicago.&nbsp; It made sense, Chicago was a relatively easy meeting place for all of us to get to (from CO; CA, VA and MA) and easily doable for a weekend without arriving back exhausted and jetlagged. Chicago it was.&nbsp;Why AMEX Fine Resorts &amp; HotelsMy first, and only source for booking a hotel was AMEX Fine Hotels and Resorts.&nbsp; The benefits are fabulous when travelling for a weekend, especially when you need 4 rooms. Many hotels will oblige to pool the room upgrades and give us a larger suite which we can use to meet in before and after dinner or just hang out in together. &nbsp;The 2 breakfast credits/room is ample for feeding 4 big breakfast men and 3 light breakfast women.&nbsp; The early check-in is a huge bonus especially when you are arriving on the red eye from the west coast and need a few hours of sleep before feeling alive again. The late check-out is also a huge bonus especially when you are only in a city for the weekend and have a later flight on Sunday.&nbsp; These early check-ins and late checkouts facilitate getting the most out of a weekend away.&nbsp; In fact, I had looked at an Airbnb / VRBO house, but for those very reasons, we nixed that idea early on.&nbsp;Why the PendryGiven the Family was only going to be in Chicago for the weekend, we wanted to be centrally located and at a hotel we would all enjoy. I had narrowed the choice down among the Langham, the Waldorf Astoria and the Pendry and was watching their rates on AMEX for weeks before booking a hotel. &nbsp;They were fluctuating quite significantly (important to lock it in on a low especially when you are booking 4 rooms).&nbsp; When rates started to settle, it turned out that the delta between the Pendry and the Langham/Waldorf was quite significant ($150/night per room; x 3 nights x 4 rooms = $1800). &nbsp;I would be the first person to admit the Langham/Waldorf are more elegant hotels than the Pendry (more in line with the Montage, the Pendry’s more upscale sister hotel); but given the ‘use case’ (a weekend enjoying the sights of Chicago and some great meals together) and the target audience (3 young men under 30 years old and their partners), the Pendry would be just fine, in fact, what am I thinking? &nbsp;More than just fine.&nbsp; Pendry properties’ reputation and from our limited experience (see: <a href="https://karenable.com/sun-valley-tour-de-force-part-4" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Pendry Park City</a>) exude understated luxury, with interiors clad in elegant neutrals, elevated dining options&nbsp;and impeccable service; it is just more like an 8.5/10 versus a 10/10 for the Langham (see: <a href="https://karenable.com/langham-london" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Langham London</a>)

Pendry Hotel’s LocationGiven the importance of location for this weekend’s choice of hotel, let’s start there.&nbsp; The Pendry’s location was perfect – it was literally across the river from the Langham.&nbsp; The Pendry is centrally situated off Michigan Ave, in the heart of the Chicago Loop.&nbsp; It was close to some what we wanted to see and do.&nbsp; Nearby is some of the city’s best shopping (Magnificent Mile, Oak Street, Eataly).&nbsp; Our favorite restaurants were a short walk or short UBER away (La Colonial, Roku, Armitage Alehouse. Monte Verde, Gibson’s Steak House, Indienne and Tre Dita Cucina Toscana). The Pendry is a stone’s throw from our must do/must see attractions (Chicago Riverwalk, Architectural River Boat Tour launches, Millennium Park and The Chicago Theatre).&nbsp;&nbsp;The Pendry Hotel’s Building HistoryAmazing what you learn on the Architectural River Boat Tours. When the art deco Carbide &amp; Carbon Building that houses the Pendry opened back in 1929, it was a dazzling symbol of the Jazz Age: a feast of gold leaf and dark-green terracotta that was a glittering addition to Chicago’s already skyscraper-strewn skyline. Its champagne-bottle shape was significant too — a defiant celebration of liquor in a city and a nation in the throes of Prohibition.&nbsp;The Pendry HotelThe Pendry understands the importance of their Doormen greeting guests with a warm &amp; professional welcoming.&nbsp; They were our first encounter with the hotel and set the first and lasting impression. &nbsp;These Doormen (and their counterpart Bellmen) were consistently helpful throughout our stay:&nbsp; they recognized us as we came and went; asked if we need a water or an umbrella; offered help with directions or if we needed a taxi. &nbsp;The Front Desk staff are equally well trained and very accommodating.&nbsp;The Pendry Chicago offers a unique blend of historic charm and modern sophistication. The lobby’s gilded elevators and gleaming Belgian marble scream “Roaring Twenties” — but the rooms are much more timeless. Expect stylish mid-century accents (think dark-wood dressers and low-slung leather armchairs), backdropped by sleek whitewashed walls and powder-white linens. White marble bathrooms are fitted with walk-in showers (some suites have tubs) and kitted out with chic MiN New York toiletries.&nbsp; Housekeeping is super accommodating and seem to be on every floor as whenever any of us called for more towels or coffee, they were there in a minute.

The Pendry’s signature French brasserie and cafe is called Venteux. There is of course the classic breakfast options of a choice of French pastries; wedge of Baguette with butter and jam; or yogurt, granola and fruit. There is also a full Bistro menu including Steak Frites and Moules Frites. &nbsp;Be sure to order their Duck &amp; Waffle or Croque Madame at least one morning! &nbsp;Venteux is definitely ‘Karenable’!There is a beautiful rooftop bar to catch the sunset (be sure to make reservations as even guests of the hotel can’t get a table without one). &nbsp;Bar Pendry is set off the lobby in a cozy wooden walled nook bursting with well curated contemporary art; a classic hotel bar.They cleverly convert a corner of the lobby into a complementary Coffee &amp; Tea corner in the early morning which also has a huge bowl of granny smith apples and a stack of newspapers. A nice touch, but I personally prefer the complementary, bottomless Nespresso in the room.SSO’s Birthday celebration in Chicago was fantastic.&nbsp; The Pendry Hotel was definitely Karenable and the perfect choice for our Family weekend together. Its location could not have been better, the rooms were really great, the breakfasts were fabulous, and the staff made the difference.&nbsp;

Pendry Chicago

Fairmont Miramar, Santa Monica:&nbsp; A Relaxed, Laid-Back Oasis

SSO had the opportunity to borrow a Maserati MC20 Cielo for a few days on a recent trip to LA <a href="https://ssoreport.com/maserati-mc20-cielo-review" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">(Maserati MC20 Review)</a> to visit our son and his fiancé. We decided to stay in Santa Monica where they are living and do a road trip up to Montecito.&nbsp; Given how bad the traffic can be in L.A., we wanted to be close to the kids, the highway and the beach for morning walks.&nbsp; A quick search on AMEX Fine Hotels &amp; Resorts, decision made:&nbsp; The Fairmont Miramar.&nbsp;&nbsp;We took an UBER from the Airport. Our arrival at the Fairmont Miramar was spectacularly memorable:&nbsp; we first drove through the grand black gates of the Hotel’s entrance, then drove along a cobblestone lined driveway that led to a magnificent oversize Moreton Bay fig Tree that predates the 100-year-old plus property. Awaiting us parked out front of the Fairmont sat the well-guarded and spectacular Maserati MC 20 Cielo.&nbsp;While SSO dealt with the Maserati, an army of busy lobby staff welcomed me, people handing out water bottles, assisting with luggage and walking me to the reception desk. The levels of service being doled out was incredible; check-in was efficient and professional.&nbsp; We were offered a choice between a high floor, more traditional room with an ocean view balcony in the older Palisades Wing which was built in the 1920s or a Suite in the m ore modern 10-story Ocean Tower.&nbsp; The Fairmont also has residential-style Bungalows set in the flower-filled Miramar Gardens, but they were fully booked. We opted for the more traditional room facing east to enjoy the sunrise on the balcony.&nbsp;

The traditional room was a good size with an Eames(like) chair and ottoman – so SSO felt instantly at home (I accuse him of being ‘velroed’ to our Eames chair where he does all his writing). There was a proper mini-bar fridge – empty, so we could load it up with our preferred drinks and snacks.&nbsp; The bathroom had a double sink which I prefer and marble floors.&nbsp; The closet was a decent size.&nbsp; But the best part was indeed the balcony overlooking the ocean with a view of the mountains in the distance.&nbsp; The only negatives, we had to use the service elevator most days as the main ones in our wing were out of service.&nbsp; Tin addition, the Fairmont also tacked on what I thought was a fairly ridicules and hefty daily “resort fee” to the bill.

Breakfast was served at the Fig Restaurant with a beautiful terrace surrounded by flowering bushes overlooking the pool and bungalows. The interiors at FIG Restaurant were recently redone and felt very contemporary yet traditional.&nbsp; The vibe was a relaxed Santa Monica setting. All the food uses local and organic ingredients from the nearby Santa Monica Farmer’s Market. The fruit plates were enormous and the yogurt plentiful.&nbsp; The coffee was fresh and bottomless. All in all, a lovely way to start the day.<a href="https://cna.st/h/4HmUvV4RQZcDjGPLEcNxjMDojmuWbRfXAD8GTBCFmPExmeRQCA8MXsdaBTUT8N21YsVJXPBUDMon5fiJQj7E9WyRp7Qm5YX57fgqAgdWnsux2iYUGEGY6GrYuLoYiEU1rgkg5R6Lvb3x6v2XyG5yZrEXyZQcY6RZTfDRCHKbzixXgTqHJs2XYWXwqbLK19nLAwpUZMVcqRSD1yPYu296vyYSfgX7PfM5U3G?xid=fr1734564735725aca" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"> </a>The location was indeed perfect.&nbsp; A 5-minute drive to our son’s home, almost immediately on the highway and a stone’s throw from the beach.&nbsp; The room was very comfortable and the morning views of the sunrise across the ocean were spectacular. &nbsp;Breakfast at the Fig was consistently excellent.&nbsp; The valet service was first-rate, and they took superb care of the Maserati. &nbsp;&nbsp;I’d&nbsp; recommend The Fairmont Miramar if these are things you value in a hotel stay in Santa Monica.

Fairmont Santa Monica

Langham Hotel in London:&nbsp; Traditional Grandeur, Understated Elegance, Outstanding Service, a Quintessential London Hotel

Did you know that London, England has the greatest number of 5 Star Luxury Hotels in the World?&nbsp; London has more luxury hotels than Dubai, New York, Paris and Miami.&nbsp; No wonder it is always a challenge for me to choose where to stay when we visit London.&nbsp; But as my husband, SSO, was invited to attend the Financial Times “The Future of Cars Summit” last May (see: <a href="https://ssoreport.com/ft-future-of-the-car-2024" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">FT's Future of the Car</a>), that helped focus the area of London to start the search.&nbsp; As we were planning a kitchen renovation, being close to kitchen stores was another point to focus in my search.&nbsp; With the location chosen, it was time to research the rates &amp; specials on AMEX Fine Luxury Hotels and Resorts.&nbsp; The Langham Hotel was the perfect choice.&nbsp; It was a short walk to where the conference was being held and in the heart of the “Kitchen District”.&nbsp; Its rate was competitive with other Fine Luxury Hotels in the vicinity, and it included a $100 property credit, daily breakfast for two people, late checkout and a room upgrade (when available). The Langham is a Classic rather than Cutting Edge Hotel (see: <a href="https://karenable.com/the-londoner2" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">The Londoner</a>) and it does what it does well … really well.&nbsp; It was perfect in so many ways beyond its location.The Langham has a legendary hotel heritage dating back to 1865, when it opened as Europe’s first Grand Hotel.&nbsp; For nearly 160 years, this flagship hotel has been at the forefront of sophistication, personalized service and gracious hospitality.&nbsp; From its outset, it has occupied an unrivaled location in the heart of London, just moments from the tranquility of Regent’s Park and the buzz of Oxford Circus.&nbsp; It is truly a London icon.&nbsp;Stepping out of the taxi, a jovial, uniformed bellman immediately greeted me and offered to take my bags and escort me to the check-in.&nbsp; His professional and friendly demeanor was not lost on me, but no need as I had SSO’s room number. His offer of a bottle of cold water was greatly appreciated.

Despite being jetlagged after my red-eye flight, I could not help but notice how elegant the lobby was, I stood for a minute admiring the full grandeur of spectacular chandeliers, marble columns and tall bouquets of orchids (my favorite flower).&nbsp; The décor is best described as understated elegance.&nbsp; The vibe is refined, not showy.&nbsp; As I made my way to SSO’s room, I noticed the Langham Hotels &amp; Resorts brand’s famous soft pink hue sprinkled throughout the hotel.Upon opening the door to SSO’s room, I was pleasantly surprised by how large it was – especially for London.&nbsp; SSO had just finished making me a double expresso from the Nespresso machine – I am instantly feeling at home.&nbsp; A bit more awake now, I admired the room’s beauty and elegance. The room felt spacious and relaxing.&nbsp; SSO had placed my carry-on on the luggage rack and had opened it for me, so I started to unpack.&nbsp; I was amazed to find a proper mirrored wardrobe with proper wooden hangers – test #1, passed.&nbsp; It even had a proper ironing board, iron and a clothes steamer.&nbsp; There was also a dresser for clothes topped with a stunning bouquet of fresh cut flowers. There was a good-sized desk large enough to work at comfortably.&nbsp; Much to my surprise there was a generous bowl of fresh fruit which I came to learn was refreshed daily!&nbsp; In addition, there was a box of chocolates. The bed looked exceptionally inviting with tons of feather pillows and a big, fluffy duvet – but I had to resist the temptation even though there were black-out curtains to block the gloriously rare beaming sun.&nbsp; A walk in the sunshine was going to be a much better cure for my jetlag.A quick shower on the other hand, was the perfect jetlag tonic before heading down for breakfast. &nbsp;The bathroom was elegantly luxurious and spacious, a hallmark of traditional grandeur.&nbsp; There was a large bathtub and a separate shower, each with great water pressure and plenty of hot water (even after the morning ‘rush-hour’).&nbsp; The bathroom featured stunning marble floors, walls and sink counters.&nbsp; I always appreciate windows that open in the bathroom – it just feels cleaner with the fresh air circulating. &nbsp;I loved the scent and eminence of the Diptyque toiletries. The towels were plentiful and plush (I later learned these were replaced throughout the day if used and not just during the thorough nightly turndown service).&nbsp; The WC was a separate room – test #2, passed.&nbsp; After my shower, I emerged with a thick and cozy Frette dressing gown and joined SSO for a second double expresso.&nbsp;

The Langham offered three options for breakfast.&nbsp; Room Service of course.&nbsp; The central lobby restaurant, the Palm Court where their famous afternoon tea takes place.&nbsp; It is stunning with glamourous touches like white linen tablecloths, velvet chairs, crystal accents and even a miniature stool for a lady’s handbag. Jetlagged, we opted for the more casual setting of The Wigmore.&nbsp; Best described as a British ‘gastropub’, it serves hearty food by celebrity chef Michel Roux Jr. I loved it.&nbsp; A buffet of Staub pots filled with all the trimmings of an English Breakfast and then some.&nbsp; There was a Bloody Mary ‘buffet’ and a Champagne Cocktail ‘buffet’ to boot!&nbsp; The staff was super prompt, friendly and always had a welcoming big smile. Breakfast that morning had to win the prize for the best breakfast ever!&nbsp; Needless to say, we ended back at the Wigmore on my second morning too as it was fabulous!&nbsp; The third and last breakfast at the Langham, we enjoyed a lovely meal at The Palm Court.&nbsp; Very elegant and delicious with a sophisticated vibe.&nbsp;After breakfast on my first and second morning, SSO departed for the FT Conference and I for a walk in the sunshine to wake up and a day of kitchen. Shopping. Each evening, we met back at the Wigmore for a cocktail before heading out for dinner.&nbsp;Walking through the hotel one afternoon, I discovered, Sauce, the Langham’s culinary school.&nbsp; They offer a variety of cookery classes.&nbsp; It looked inspiring; I would love this experience – such a fun thing to do on a rainy day (lots of those in London!)

There are abundant amenities at the Langham Hotel and all looked very impressive; but I do regret not finding time to swim laps in their 52-foot pool and to explore the surrounding neighborhoods on the Langham bicycles.&nbsp;The Langham was the perfect choice for this trip.&nbsp; Its location is unrivaled.&nbsp; After nearly 160 years of hospitality grandeur, the Langham is the epitome of understated elegance and refined sophistication whether it is the Lobby or your Room. Service is superb across the board; it is slick, personal, always polite. The Breakfast choices are many and varied from ‘gastropub’ to the daintiness of a high-tea with the vast food offerings being really rather delicious.&nbsp; Next visit I will definitely be sure to also take a cooking class at Sauce, swim laps and bike the local area.

Langham London

SSO and I share a passion for supercars, fine food and fine hotels; ideally brought together to create an exceptional experience. As somewhat regular patrons of fine, luxury hotels, we prefer to seek out different hotels when we travel.&nbsp; As a cardinal rule we don’t go back to the same hotel twice. &nbsp;With decades of ‘training’ now, I would like to think that I have developed a ‘sommelier’s nose’ for fine, luxury hotels; at a minimum, that I have the ability to identify when a hotel is truly outstanding and exceptional and when it’s simply just great! However, regardless of the number of outstanding reviews you read and how exceptional it seems ‘on paper’, the real truth is uncovered in your experience.&nbsp;Our most recent trip in mid-May 2024 started in Woking, England where McLaren kindly lent us a new McLaren 750S to drive for the week (I will let SSO share his driving experience posted:&nbsp; <a href="//ssoreport.com/mclaren-750s-review)." rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" data-link-auto="">ssoreport.com/mclaren-750s-review).</a> As the passenger for 5 – 8 hours a day, for 6 days, I have to say it is exceptionally comfortable and can hold a shocking amount of luggage between the frunk and behind the seats (2 carry-on suitcases, 1 suit bag, I knapsack, 1 large tote bag, 1 purse and 2 jackets!)We stayed in 3 different hotels in France over 6 days:&nbsp; Ferme Saint Simeon in Honfleur, Domaine Des Etangs in Massignac and Domaine De Primard in Guainville.&nbsp; We decided to limit the number of hotels to 3 so that we could enjoy a minimum of 2 days at each. We chose these hotels based on meeting 3 criteria:1.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fine, Luxury Hotel2.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Gastronomic Restaurant3.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; At least 5 hours apart to enjoy the McLarenThis article will cover Domaine de Primard.&nbsp; Ferme Saint Simeon and Domaine Des Etangs and will be under separate covers.I was searching for a hotel to meet the above criteria for our final destination before heading back to England.&nbsp; Location wise, 5 hours from Domaine Des Etangs landed us an hour or so from Paris which was also about 5 hours to Woking. I began the hunt for hotels in this area searching AMEX Fine Hotels &amp; Resorts, Tablet Hotels, SLH, and various travel guides to find the perfect place.Domaine de Primard appeared perfect!&nbsp; It is an 18th-century Château and was the stately country home of Catherine Deneuve for nearly thirty years.&nbsp; The hotel seemed to meet all our criteria. Le Primard is described by many travel reviews as elegant, secluded, unpretentious, tranquil, and luxurious. &nbsp;After spending 2 nights there, I don’t disagree with the reviews’ descriptions in totality; however, it is only when you combine the room, the grounds &amp; their gardener, the pool, and the gourmet dining experience that I get there.

Upon arrival, we were surprised to have to park the McLaren in a dirt parking lot with various potholes. SSO walked around the lot and was eventually reassured with the other cars parked. &nbsp;On route to the Chateau, we met the gardener, Gerard Germaine.&nbsp; He was originally hired by Catherine Deneuve and more than a decade later, he still tends the gardens. He is fascinating and clearly very proud to share his stories of the estate that he is responsible for.&nbsp; The estate is surrounded by 100 acres of century-old trees, his prized semi-wild rose garden with more than 250 varieties, the produce gardens which inspire and supply the estate’s restaurants, and farm animals. As we continued to walk it was beautiful to see just how immaculate Gerard’s gardens were, how perfectly manicure his boxwood were, how the lawns looked neatly mowed, and the white-shelled trails immaculately clean.&nbsp;On the outside, Domaine de Primard is a classic 18th-century chateau with its elegant Directoire proportions, topped with a mansard roof and punctuated by pretty blue shutters and a majestic moat. Inside, there are a succession of lounges decorated with antique woodwork, large fireplaces and plush sofas.&nbsp; My favorite is a small corner boudoir with floral wallpaper and a pink banquette, ideal for lazing around while reading your novel.&nbsp;Le Primard has a total of 40 rooms/suites housed in 4 different buildings.&nbsp; There is the oldest building on the estate, the Lakehouse (La Maison du Lac) with some ground floor rooms having private gardens, Le Barn (a handful of rooms share the former barn house with the Spa), La Maison du Verge (former orchard housing the two main restaurants and a few rooms) and the main historic 18th century Maison sur’Eure. The entire property has a minimalist countryside pastel aesthetic with the focus on natural tones and elements while remaining true to some of the original architectural and design aspects. IMO, it is beautifully executed, but not sure entirely fitting.Le Primard’s elegance and luxury is further underpinned with the fitting-out of the bedrooms, lounges and restaurants which showcase the best of French craftsmanship: fabrics by Pierre Frey, pottery by Faïenceries de Gien and Faïencerie de Charolles, Maison Sarah Lavoine and Sylvie Coquet, tableware by Elisabeth Monroy and Isabelle Poupinel contribute to the understated elegance of Le Primard. Tectona is the provider of the outdoor furniture next to the pool, on the banks of the Eure and on the patios; specifically, the Directory-inspired&nbsp;1800&nbsp;collection in black, the iconic&nbsp;Roma&nbsp;parasol, the classic&nbsp;Exbury bench, the comfortable&nbsp;Copacabana&nbsp;folding bed and, on the teak pontoons, the&nbsp;Southamptonsun lounger.There is lots to do at Le Primard depending on your interests.&nbsp; You could stroll the vast gardens and stop to smell the roses along the way, loaf on deck chairs spaced out along the river Eure all the way to the edge of the 30 hectare property, lounge by the 18 meter heated pool sheltered by trim topiary, play a game of tennis, indulge in a treatment at the Susanne Kaufmann spa, take a gardening workshop or a cooking class, or sip tea in the greenhouse that doubles as a tea salon.

Guests at the hotel can choose from three distinct restaurants, each offering a unique experience but all serving seasonal dishes with ingredients sourced from local producers or grown in Le Primard’s own vegetable garden tended by Gerard!1.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Les Chemins: Romain Meder's Michelin-starred restauranta.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Offers a fine gourmet dining experience where you are likely to rub elbows with fellow culinary-minded travelers.b.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Note, it is only open Thursday through Sunday so plan your stay accordingly and be sure to reserve well in advance as you don’t want to miss this experience!c.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Our dinner was exceptional – in fact, the dinner was the best part of our experience at Le Primard – truly an unforgettable meal, worth a stay in and of itself!2.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Martin: Géraud Dupuis' bistronomic restauranta.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Serves bistro fare and is open daily serving 3 meals.b.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; In fine weather, enjoy al fresco dining on the terrace that stretches out on the grass between the apple and cherry trees.c.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; It is good to know they serve lunch as there are not a lot of options nearby Le Primard.3.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Table d'Hôtes is a private dinner experience in the River Eure House.a.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; It welcomes two to twelve diners around a single large table for a cozy ambience.b.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; It is a set price of €1500 excluding drinks.c.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; You need to reserve at least 24 hours in advance.Net, net… The hotel room itself was good (3/5), the pool and the estates’ gardens were great (4/5), and our gourmet extravaganza at Les Chemins, the highlight of our stay, was truly exceptional (5/5).&nbsp; If you are travelling on route or taking a weekend break from Paris (an hour away), then I’d recommend Le Primard, but only if you can get a table at Les Chemins to make your experience truly memorable.

Domaine De Primard

SSO and I share a passion for supercars, fine food and fine hotels; ideally brought together to create an exceptional experience. As somewhat regular patrons of fine, luxury hotels, we prefer to seek out different hotels when we travel; as a cardinal rule we don’t go back to the same hotel twice. With decades of ‘training’ now, I would like to think that I have developed a ‘sommelier’s nose’ for fine, luxury hotels; at a minimum, that I have the ability to identify when a hotel is truly outstanding and exceptional and when it’s simply just great!Our most recent trip in mid-May 2024 started in Woking, United Kingdom where McLaren kindly lent us a new McLaren 750S to drive for the week (I will let SSO share his driving experience posted:&nbsp; <a href="//ssoreport.com/mclaren-750s-review)." rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" data-link-auto="">ssoreport.com/mclaren-750s-review).</a> As the passenger for 5 – 8 hours a day, for 6 days, I have to say it is exceptionally comfortable and can hold a shocking amount of luggage between the frunk and behind the seats (2 carry-on suitcases, 1 suit bag, I knapsack, 1 large tote bag, 1 purse and 2 jackets!)We stayed in 3 different hotels in France over 6 days:&nbsp; Ferme de Saint Simeon in Honfleur, Domaine Des Etangs in Massignac and Domaine De Primard in Guainville.&nbsp; We decided to limit the number of hotels to 3 so that we could enjoy 2 days at each. We chose these hotels based on meeting 3 criteria:1.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fine, Luxury Hotel2.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Michelin Gastronomic Restaurant3.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; At least 5 hours apart to enjoy the McLarenThis article will cover Domaine Des Etangs.&nbsp; Ferme de Saint Simeon and Domaine de Primard will be under separate covers.In a word, Domaine Des Etangs is outstanding, spectacular, incomparable, unsurpassed, magical, unique, sublime … truly heavenly.&nbsp; I am not at all surprised that it is the # 1 hotel in France according to readers of the Condé Nast Traveler Gold List 2024.&nbsp; It is no surprise that the Auberge Resorts Collection now manages Domaine Des Etangs!

About a week before we arrived, the hotel sent a questionnaire to ensure they understood our needs and wants (still or sparkling water in our room, feather or foam pillows, if we had any allergies, to confirm our lunch and dinner reservations, expected time of arrival… ).&nbsp; This is a small gesture but had a big impact.&nbsp; The only other hotel that I have been to that did this was the Four Seasons Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru – theirs was so extensive it even specified favorite drinks, fruit … and requested your picture.&nbsp; When you arrived by sea plane, they greeted you by name and a glass of your favorite.&nbsp; Nice touch.What was to be&nbsp; 5 hour drive from La Ferme Saint Simeon to Domaine des Etangs turned out to be a &nbsp;7-hour drive. A few French specialties added a couple of hours to our travels:&nbsp;1. Trying to find a gas station that wasa) Open on a Monday morningb) Open and still had gas after a long weekend.2. Detours through small towns driving opposite large tractor trailers on narrow windy roads due to highway construction3. Multiple toll booths that required stopping and getting out of the right-hand drive car to get the ticket / pay at the left side toll booth inside of a narrow track.Domaine de Etangs is literally in the middle of nowhere.&nbsp; You drive small two-way “D” roads (In the US, these would be one lane, one-way streets!) for at least an hour after getting off the highway.&nbsp; If you are looking for lots to do within an hour or so of the hotel including a choice of restaurants to go to and stores to shop in … I would not recommend this hotel. If you are seeking peace and tranquility, this place is your heaven. I am not judging; I am simply acknowledging so one can make wise choices.&nbsp;Upon arrival, our bags are whisked away in a little electric Citroen to our farmhouse, Le Licorne. The bags were not left just inside the door to the room but were put upstairs in the bedroom, open and resting on luggage racks with the suit bag hanging. The Citroen returned and we were given its keys. I thought that they had a typo on their website when they said that you will have a car for your stay.&nbsp; I thought they meant to write cart – like a golf cart.&nbsp; But no – they meant to say car!&nbsp; A little electric Citroen ours for the duration of our stay.&nbsp; Sweet!

First things first.&nbsp; We were walked through the inside of this special 11th Century Chateau, accompanied by a very knowledgeable young woman who was able to give us a guided tour complete with its relevant history. &nbsp;Just incredible; the website and other reviews do not do Le Domaine Des Etangs justice.&nbsp; I now understand what she meant when she said the hotel can be fully occupied and you may not see another guest except at meals!&nbsp; It is vast with several magnificent rooms to lounge in. I am trying to remember just how many common rooms there were; there was one with a grand piano, another with a harp and a grand fireplace, one with an honor bar, another with miniature furniture mirroring the adult sofa’s and chairs; one with the planets as ceiling lights and book shelf after bookshelf filled with books on the solar system; one with ‘real dandelion lights’ – no idea how they made them but certainly impressive and another with very large pieces of art.&nbsp; We were not able to access the Breakfast room as it was occupied with a private meeting. Every room was absolutely spotless, not a speck of dust anywhere, windows so clean you could walk into them, the stone floors were squeaky clean and every pillow was perfectly fluffed; yet you felt right at home and would be perfectly comfortable lounging there as you would be in the comfort of your own home.The Attic was an unexpected gem. It was filled with comfortable, oversized furniture, with part of it set up as a games room with billiards and foosball for the adults and part set up as a children’s playroom with treasure chests filled with costumes, games, and puppets. It was massive – the entire footprint of the chateau filled with potential fun!&nbsp; Bring it on!Located in the old cellars of the chateaux is a heated indoor swimming pool (35°C) open 24 hours a day. &nbsp;It is accessed from both the gardens outside that run alongside the river and from inside the Chateau. &nbsp;It is surrounded on one side by floor to ceiling glass windows &amp; doors enabling you to gaze out to the roses and trees beyond and on the other side by a series of thermal baths.&nbsp; It is set up perfectly to swim then relax (or vice versa) on the wide lounges at the end of the pool (or outside on a nice day).&nbsp; I was grateful for the information about the thermal baths.&nbsp; They have a succession of hammams and steam baths according to the Roman tradition, going from hot to lukewarm, then cold to optimize the benefits of the treatment through 'water’. Temperatures range from 50° (122°F) in the hottest steam room to 7°C (45°F) in the cooling alcove to allow muscles to completely relax and all tension to release. &nbsp;There are lockers for your belongings, washrooms, and showers.&nbsp; There is water to drink, loads of towels, Sothy’s of Paris shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and hair dryers.&nbsp; I was pleasantly surprised how clean and ‘mold free’ the entire pool and thermal baths were – especially given the water /moisture everywhere.A stone's throw from the castle is the Dairy, a dedicated exhibition hall which hosts &nbsp;innovative artists’ work.&nbsp; Above the main exhibition hall is the library, or ‘La Laiterie’ which has two mezzanine spaces. One is the library of the past, which brings together books published before 1920; the other, the library of the future, intended for books dating from after 1920. Upholstered leather sofas, perfectly oriented lighting, shelves overflowing with fascinating and unusual volumes. A private sanctuary of sorts.Les Domaine de Etangs has 17 unique Guest Rooms, Suites and Farmhouses. Not only is each unique and different to the others but they are also unlike any hotel room / suite / cottage you have ever stayed at.&nbsp; There are 7 rooms and large suites upstairs in the Chateau each named after a star and they range in size from 38m² for the Prestige Rooms to147m² for the Signature Suite, Venus. There are 4 additional suites in the ‘Longere’ Building (a long farmhouse adjacent to the Chateau where the restaurant and reception are), each named after a season and these range in size from 63m² to 85m². There are 6 farmhouses scattered across the 2,500-acre estate which range from 1 to 5 bedrooms (from 104m² to 393m²) in size. The one thing they all have in common is the 11th Century stone walls (and for many units, stone floors too) with the interior stunningly decorated in a combination of antique furniture &amp; contemporary fashion that just works beautifully.

&nbsp;We were escorted to our one-bedroom country farmhouse, Le Licorne, about a mile from the Chateau by another little Citroen showing us the way.&nbsp; It was a stunning drive through the countryside of the estate. The local prized Limousin cattle were everywhere. As it had been raining quite heavily, the streams and ponds were overflown and there were a few ‘drive through’s – we prayed the electric battery was well sealed!&nbsp; The road through the estate is well marked on iron signs by the roadside. When we arrived, Licorne was like a romantic home away from home, the old stone walls of the farmhouse felt instantly inviting and calming.&nbsp;Our little farmhouse had everything we needed for a relaxing and peaceful 2 days. The kitchenette was perfect for preparing snacks; there was a little refrigerator for storing wine, water and cheese. There was an induction stovetop, sink, and a coffee maker which grinds the beans fresh for each cup (like our Jura at home). There were plates, cutlery, glasses, and coffee cups for 3. While we didn’t use the large dining table it certainly invites dining in with meals prepared by the Domaine chefs or yourself if you felt so obliged. The large antique armoire stored 3 bike helmets (there are plenty of bikes for use if you didn’t want to drive or walk and a large map of the property you can fold up and tuck into your pocket), a safe, umbrellas, and lots of shelves and hangers for your outdoor things. The bathroom was complete with robes, lots of towels, gorgeous Sothy’s of Paris hand soaps, lotions, shampoo and conditioner. There was a large window looking out to more cows! In the living room, a deep L-shaped sofa was perfectly placed in front of the oversize stone fireplace with a fire set and ready to be lit.&nbsp; Outside there was a private garden with views of the Château. It was perfect for lingering chats over morning coffee and evening cognac. &nbsp;The bedroom was upstairs nestled under a slanted ceiling of wooden beams, there was also a nook with a sofa, chairs, cozy blanket and a TV. One nitpicky thing, it would be nice to have more plugs by the bed to plug in your iPhone.&nbsp; The loft looked down to the living room. For a couple looking to get away from it all, Licorne is a haven of peace and tranquility.&nbsp; Everywhere you look, you see and experience the beauty of this unspoiled countryside.Dyades is the estate’s main restaurant. The décor is a balance between the rustic stone walls and fireplace and the contemporary refinement of the table décor, plated with Bernard Daud the finest local porcelain (the factory is nearby in Limoges).&nbsp; If the weather permits, guests can dine on the terrace to revel in the relaxing countryside with the most beautiful picture-postcard views. The menu is inspired by the freshest seasonal produce which is handpicked daily in the estate’s spiral-shaped organic garden (do join the weekly tour!), then prepared to perfection in the château’s kitchens. Other ingredients, like Fois Gras and Limousin Beef don’t travel far as they are sourced from local producers.&nbsp; The culinary enchantments are traditional French cuisine infused with a modern approach to dining and a touch of rural charm. The Gastronomic menu is only offered Wednesday to Saturday evenings. The Bistronomic menu is served Monday to Sunday for lunch and Sunday to Tuesday for dinner (exclusively for guests).&nbsp; SSO and I shared the Fois Gras (the best we have ever had!) and a humungous piece of Limousin beef cooked perfectly!&nbsp; For lunch we enjoyed the best limousine beef hamburger with local bacon and cheese and the best French fries, they were to die for.&nbsp; Their secret so we were told is they are double cooked in Limousin beef fat! But we must go back to enjoy their Gastronomic dinner!

Breakfasts are served in the Monade located in the Chateau.&nbsp; The simple and hearty breakfast is served in a friendly and casual atmosphere.&nbsp; Freshly squeezed juices are plentiful as are the sampling of home-made bread and breakfast sweets (French toast or crepes with local syrup). Local cheeses and hams pair well with the fresh local eggs cooked any style on the stove in the buffet room. Worth getting out of bed for!&nbsp;Domaine Des Etangs is a unique place.&nbsp; Each stone, each roof has been carefully restored according to tradition.&nbsp; This is balanced with a great variety of the contemporary works of art and design. It is a quiet and peaceful place which brings together yesterday and tomorrow in an everlasting present.We almost did not go to the next hotel we had booked; Domaine De Primard as Domaine Des Etangs was so exceptional we did not want to leave! But we will break our cardinal rule and come back … soon; hopefully mid-late September.&nbsp; Why?1.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Because we just loved it so, so much and are so, so happy and tranquil there.2.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Because there is so, so much we didn’t do but wanted to:a.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Gastronomic mealb.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Swim and lounge by the outdoor poolc.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; SSO to row me around in the boat on the riverd.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Picnic by the rivere.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Play tennis on the ‘floating’ court,f.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Massage in the spa – Winner of the ‘Best Country Spa Hotel’ in the Worldg.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Lounging by one of the several outdoor fire pitsh.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Discovering the Domaine by bike and by walking3.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Because the autumn foliage will be spectacular, to enjoy while we forage for mushrooms and chestnuts for the chef to cook up into something special.Nous nous souviendrons toujours. &nbsp;Nous reviendrons.