Relais &amp; Chateau’s L’ And Vineyards: An ‘Aman-ish’ Retreat with a Focus on Gastronomy, Wine and Relaxation

After a fabulous weekend in Lisbon (see: <a href="https://karenable.com/rc-lisbon" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Valverde Lisboa Hotel &amp; Garden</a>) Mr. SSO and I were looking forward to getting out into the countryside. When I was on the Relais &amp; Chateau site for the Valverede Hotel in Lisbon, I also saw L’ And Vineyards, a Hotel about an hour east of Lisbon. Impressive first impressions. Their description had me wishing we had a week, not 2 nights:&nbsp; At L'AND Vineyards, everything revolves around the pleasures of the vine: 15 acres of organic vineyards. At Mapa restaurant, cuisine is elevated to the level of a universal language, celebrating the fusion of culinary cultures born from the numerous sea voyages of the Portuguese.&nbsp; The oenological experience continues at the vinotherapy spa in which some of the treatments are grape-based. Surrounded by vines, an outdoor infinity pool seems to extend into the waters of the lake.&nbsp; Discover an original and sensory way to explore Portugal.”

The driver from Relais &amp; Chateau’s Valverde Hotel dropped us off at Lisbon Airport where Mr. SSO had to navigate the hectic car rental check in; Hertz Gold Membership doesn’t seem to have any value here. We eventually got the rental car and drove to Relais &amp; Chateau’s L’ And &amp; Vineyards Hotel. After an hour or so drive through the rolling countryside, we arrived at their front gates. We buzzed the gate to announce ourselves and then proceeded to drive through a mile or so of vineyards and olive groves before arriving at the main entrance to the Hotel.The reception is massive with a wall of gas-burning fireplaces surrounded by contemporary chairs.&nbsp; There were 2 desks at the rear.&nbsp; We were welcomed by two very helpful and proud receptionists.&nbsp; As we were only staying for 2 nights, they informed us that MAPA, the fine dining room, a destination in and of itself for many guests, was only open tonight, not tomorrow night. We of course immediately made reservations. While one of the receptionists was busy with our paperwork, the other shared with us the details of the Hotel’s intriguing and impressive conception, architecture, interior design and art before taking us on a tour. They told us about an article in The Aficionados which documents the whole history in detail, some excerpts follow.

L'And Vineyard was created and owned by the Sousa Cunhal Family; they have had family roots in the Alentejo since the 18th century. Jose Cunhal is the founder and CEO of the Estate and his wife, Marta Passarinho is the Maître de Maison; both share a razor-sharp instinct for sustainable luxury and cool sophistication. They hired the award-winning firm, Promontorio, to conceive the architectural blueprint of a series of clustered townhouses and villas. Brazilian architect, Marcio Kogan, of Studio MK27, translated the concept through his approach to art, architecture and interior design. Kogan ‘s use of light, wood and contemporary elements was genius. Local Hand-tufted carpets are by Fabricaal. Heavy-cut black limestone floors, typlical of Alentejo, oak wood wainscotting and eucalyptus wood frame statement design pieces like the Void lights by Tom Dixon and chairs by Joao Serodio and Joao Santa Rita and furnishing by Vldimar Kagan and Jorge Zalzuspin.&nbsp; Bespoke wooden pieces designed by George Nakashima and meticulously places ethereal artworks by Micahel Bibersteien are throughout the hotel.&nbsp; The cohesive blend of nature, commitment to the environment, wine culture and design are the hallmarks of L’and.

The Hotel tour brought the details to life. Beyond the reception was a large lounge complete with Eames Chairs overlooking the vineyards on one side and the stainless-steel wine making vats on the other. This led into MAPA, the fine dining restaurant, overlooking the lake.&nbsp; Downstairs is the Vinotheraphy Spa featuring Vinoble Cosmetics founded by Austrian natural ski guru Luise Kofer who grows her own herbs and works alongside vineyards – a perfect partnership. Wood dominates the serenity.&nbsp; The Spa is complemented by an indoor heated pool, sauna, hammam and treatment rooms. Around the corner from the Spa is Café Viagem, the Wine Tasting Room and a Meeting Room. The Café is a relaxing lounge with an informal atmosphere and opens out to an outdoor terrace complete with a huge firepit. A little further by the lake is a terrace with a bar for al-fresco dining.

The receptionist then walked us through a small vineyard to our Deluxe Sky View Suite. The garden terrace in front of the door had 2 very comfortable well cushioned chairs, a firepit, a lantern and outstanding views to the garden, the lake, and the hilltop village Castle in the distance.

We entered the Suite (1292 square feet/120 sqm) into its Living Room which had a separate sitting area, large coffee table and desk.&nbsp; Behind this was a large dining table and mini bar with a Nespresso coffee making station. A lovely welcoming ensemble of local extravagances sat on the table:&nbsp; a vase of fresh local wildflowers, a bottle of one of the L’And wines with our names printed on the label, a large bottle of Portuguese still water, a homemade granola muffin, a hardcover book on L’And Vineyards and a hand-written note from the Manager. Sliding glass doors led out to a private patio and plunge pool open to the sky with a large ‘mattress chair’ to lay on.&nbsp; Another set of sliding doors off the patio led to the en-suite bathroom with a separate WC (bonus marks), stand-alone rain-shower room, and a massive slate bathtub.&nbsp; Beside the dual sinks was a makeup mirror, hairdryer, bathrobes and slippers.&nbsp; The shower gel, shampoo and conditioner were from Oliófora, an organic brand based in natural essential oils. There was also a large double closet with proper removable wooden hangers and some silk hangers.&nbsp; Our bags had already arrived in the suite and were sitting on luggage racks.

The bedroom also had sliding doors which opened to the front terrace and were discretely hidden by wood-slatted doors. The king bed had a phenomenal retractable roof above it with views of the star-studded skies in the evening and flooding natural light by day. The skylight above the bed made staying at L’And quite memorable. &nbsp;

The décor created a tasteful luxury atmosphere that achieves beauty through elegance and simplicity and small details. The décor makes use of wood and natural stone to provide a serene yet sumptuous living space.&nbsp; The whole suite is very reminiscent of the design and architecture of Aman Resorts: understated luxury, minimalist design, and seamless integration with their natural surroundings.For the first time, I can honestly write, that the pictures on the R&amp;C site (nor my own!) do not do justice to the beauty of the L’And Vineyard Hotel. We had been at the hotel less than an hour and I was already wishing we were staying for a week!

The tour continued outside. In the middle of the vineyards, there is an outdoor infinity pool which feels like it merges with the natural lake beyond. There is a walk out dock where you can set off on a stand-up paddleboard or dive in for a swim. The outdoor terrace alongside the lake was open for food and drinks all day. They pointed out a 1-mile wellness walk which passes the Villas, goes around the lake, through the olive groves, vineyards, and wildflowers. &nbsp;The Villas, we were told, are residences with private pools and are surrounded by the owners’ private vineyards growing grapes of their favorite wine (which L’ And harvests and bottles for them). When not in residence, some owners allow the Hotel to rent out their villas.

Back in our Suite we unpacked and settled in. I retreated to the private patio with a book and lay on the ‘mattress’ until we got ready for dinner, totally blissed out listening to the birds as I lay quietly reading. Mr. SSO retreated to the sofa to write and listen to his music played through the Suite’s Marshal speaker.Dinner at MAPA was truly outstanding. The Executive Chef David Jesus’ career spans some of the most celebrated kitchens in the world, the who’s who of global haute cuisine (including Michelin starred kitchens of Quique Dacosta, Cellar Can Roca, Le Bristo, Paris, Mugaritz, Viajante and Belcanto). His cuisine draws on his vast experiences, from his travels and his Portuguese heritage. The chef sources the finest local ingredients including organic produce from Alentejo’s soils, grass-fed meats and the freshest seafood from the port of Setubal. We opted for the Tasting Menu. Each dish had a story, and the service team was well trained in telling it. I felt like we had travelled the world that evening and the journey allowed us to taste, feel, observe and understand the essence of each cuisine. I had the chefs all sign the menu creating a special memory of the evening. We doubt it will be long before Michelan awards Chef David Jesus &amp; MAPA Restaurant their well deserving stars.&nbsp; Meanwhile, they continue to contribute to making Portugal a gastronomic destination of excellence.

We arrived back at out Suite; the lantern had been lit and the turn-down service replaced the towels and left home-made cookies on our pillows. We fell asleep glazing at the stars above our bed and awoke to the blue morning skies above. We enjoyed fresh coffee in bed and a leisurely wake-up. I then went for a walk on the Wellness Route and enjoyed seeing the early morning dew on the wildflowers and listening to the birds sing.

Breakfast was served in the MAPA dining room.&nbsp; The Buffet extended the whole width of the room! A vast selection of freshly made breads, pastries, granola and mueslis, freshly squeezed juices, fresh cut up fruits, smoked salmon, freshly sliced jambon Iberica, a local cheese platter, homemade jams and bespoke butters, still and sparkling water and bubbly for those wishing to indulge.&nbsp; The hot menu was similarly vast. Everything was superbly delicious!

A delightful day of lounging, reading, writing and exploring. We each indulged in an hour-plus massage which were blissful! &nbsp;Again, I found myself wishing we were staying a week. Dinner at Café Viagem was a delight!&nbsp; The menu is inspired by Asian destinations with its contemporary fusion cuisine.

I would highly recommend including a stay at Relais &amp; Chateau’s L' And Vineyards as part of any trip to Portugal or even as a destination in and of itself (it is only an hour from Lisbon Airport); but try to stay longer than two days! I cannot comment on their famous wines as I don’t drink; but the other Guests raved about the quality of the wine, the wine tasting, the wine pairing with dinner at MAPA, enjoying wine by the hotel fire pit or the firepit on their terrace.&nbsp; In fact, most guests were claiming the wine and the vineyards to be the star of the show at L’ And. Imagine the combination!&nbsp;

&nbsp;<table dir="ltr" data-controllers-injected=""><tbody><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><th data-controller-cell=""></th><th data-controller-cell=""></th></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td colspan="2">KARENABLE CHECKLIST</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Feature</td><td>L' And &amp; Vineyards Hotel</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Excellent mattress with no ‘sagging’</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>High quality, pressed sheets, pillowcases &amp; duvet cover</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Sheets changed daily</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Wool blanket at the end of the bed or in the closet</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Separate WC (toilet room)</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Plenty of Wooden &amp; Some Silk Hangers (not anti-theft hangers on hooks)</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>King Sized Pillows (at least 2 each)</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Bathroom with a window</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Wood floors, not carpeted, some throw rugs</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Large bottles of complementary water replaced daily</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Nespresso (or similar) coffee machine with endless complementary pods</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Fruit bowl replaced daily</td><td>No</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Large bottles of luxurious body wash, shampoo &amp; conditioner easily accessible (not held to the wall)</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Thick, plush towels</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Towels changed with turndown service</td><td>Turndown service yes however, wet towels were not replaced</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Prompt response to requests (ice, extra pillows, fresh towels)</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Seamless login for Wi-Fi with a high-speed &amp; strong signal</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Good air circulation throughout the room / suite / apartment with good Air Conditioning / Heat</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>No noticeable ‘wear &amp; tear’ throughout</td><td>Yes, however the bedside rugs were a little worn</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Bedside and Desk notepad and pen</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Easy to access light switches</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><th data-controller-cell=""></th><td>Plenty of electrical sockets</td><td>Yes</td></tr></tbody></table>&nbsp;

L'And Viineyard

Relais &amp; Chateau’s Valverde Lisboa Hotel &amp; Garden:&nbsp; An Oasis of Elegance and Discreet Luxury

I had been to Lisbon about 30 years ago, long before Google Maps or Waze or even TomTom existed. &nbsp;All I remember is that we had a paper Michelan map and there were few, if any, street signs; not surprisingly, we got hopelessly lost driving in the city, and their narrow streets made turning around a nightmare. So, I got out of the car, hailed a cab to take me to the hotel we would be staying at, my friend followed the taxi in the rental car.&nbsp; No surprise, we decided to cut short our stay in Lisbon and depart the next morning for Porto.&nbsp; But I have always wanted to go back to Lisbon, just without a car, and explore it on foot. Meanwhile, Mr. SSO who had lived in Cascais (a town just outside Lisbon) for over 3 years, had spent little, if any time in Lisbon, but also wanted to explore it.&nbsp; There has been so much hype about Lisbon in recent years, we decided to go for a weekend.Our normal go to for hotels, AMEX Fine Hotels and Resorts, surprisingly, did not turn up anything of interest. So, I checked the Relais &amp; Chateau site on a whim, not really expecting anything as they don’t have a lot of city hotels. But they do have one in Lisbon! Their site description sounded perfect: Valverde Lisboa Hotel &amp; Garden is hidden behind a discreet door on Avenue da Liberdade, in one of the most exclusive areas of Lisbon. All the more charming for its hidden character, the hotel evokes the air of a stately town house with its perfectly polished design.&nbsp; Mr. &amp; Mrs. Smith’s description was also enticing:&nbsp; a discreet, centrally located townhouse where A-listers grace the halls undisturbed. Its gorgeous, rose-hued façade veils a warren of hidden corners and tucked-away spaces, each showcasing the best of Portuguese interiors: heavy fabrics, artwork by Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, Braz Gil porcelain and Moorish floor tiles. The pool and courtyard are quite the duo: marble-clad and jungle-like, respectively. The Valverde sounded perfect.

We found a great offer which included airport transfers, king-bedded room with a balcony, breakfast, one dinner in their gourmet dining room, and a 3-hour guided walking tour. This was exactly what we wanted.R&amp;C’s are often gourmet restaurants (many with Michelan stars) with rooms and Valverde’s fine dining restaurant, Sitio’s reviews were also excellent. I love Google AI for summarizing all the reviews for me:&nbsp; Sitio Valverde receives&nbsp;positive reviews for its sophisticated and contemporary Portuguese cuisine.&nbsp;Guests praise the restaurant's elegant ambiance, high-quality food, and excellent service.&nbsp;The restaurant is located in a courtyard setting and offers a quiet, intimate atmosphere for fine dining.&nbsp;&nbsp;

After a short flight from London, we arrived at Lisbon’s airport. Mr. SSO was none to impressed, it is still a chaotic mess. I felt like it took longer to get through Customs than it did to fly there. Our driver met us and brisked us off to the hotel.&nbsp; We were met with the most welcoming reception.&nbsp; The staff could not have been more polite, helpful, knowledgeable, professional and pleasant.&nbsp; Our bags were seamlessly delivered to our room whilst we checked in.&nbsp; One of the receptionists spotted me pulling out my little black Moleskin notebook and proactively asked if there was anything she could help me with.&nbsp; She opened a map and explained that this was a special map highlighting unique Portuguese stores and restaurants curated by a well-known, very ‘picky’ local expert. Practically every place in my notebook was listed on this map and then some! How brilliant!&nbsp; I was chuffed!

The Hotel reviews were spot on.&nbsp; We found the Valverde a hotel that exhibits elegance and charm with beautifully styled interiors, creating a warm and refined atmosphere. Every detail has been thoughtfully considered, making it feel both luxurious and welcoming.Our room was in the new extension. The bedroom had a king bed, a desk area, a couple of chairs flanked by two sets of double doors leading to its private balcony which had views over the swimming pool and leafy courtyard below. The entry way had 2 closets, one double doored one for clothes and one single doored one containing a safe, minibar and Nespresso coffee station. The bathroom was to the left of the entryway.&nbsp; A separate powerful rainfall shower was much appreciated as was the separate stall for the toilet!

The first night we walked to Bonjardim, a famous ‘frango’ (BBQed chicken) restaurant that has been in business since 1950.&nbsp; We actually waited in a long line to get in – something we rarely ever do.&nbsp; But the Portuguese do frango like no other. It was truly outstanding.&nbsp; Choices were limited – chicken: half or whole, salad or French fries and wine: red or white. The waiter told us that they serve hundreds of thousands of chickens a year! Quite a successful business model for 75 years!

Before our walking tour the next morning, we went to get Mr. SSO some hiking shoes as he hadn’t brought any; they are a must-have for walking in Lisbon.&nbsp; Even on the flat streets, the marble cobblestones are slippery; but you don’t have a hope walking up or down the hilly streets without a good gripping shoe.&nbsp; The hills in Lisbon make San Fransico seem flat! We then joined our very knowledgeable tour guide for a walk through Alfama. As the neighborhood suffered little damage from the 1755 earthquake, its medieval street plan has remained intact and largely traffic free. I would highly recommend a private guided tour; you learn things you would never have known otherwise.&nbsp; She was also kind enough to point out outstanding restaurants that the locals eat at. She dropped us off at one of these for lunch and yes, she was spot on. We would have never found it without her.&nbsp;

After lunch we walked to the Chiado neighborhood to find my Portuguese linen store, Paris em Lisbon.&nbsp; They have been in business since 1888 selling beddings, bath towels, table clothes and napkins, kitchen towels… basically anything linen, their offering is an elegant selection of pieces that delight even the most demanding (like me!). I was in search of dinner napkins and their selection was massive.&nbsp; After discussing with the very knowledgeable and helpful staff, I decided in the end to go with 12 cotton dinner napkins and not the linen ones as I do use them daily and maintaining the linen ones would be a lot more work.&nbsp; I was very tempted with the sheet sets as the fabric was fabulous and the hemstitch finish just gorgeous but wanted to check one other store famous for their sheet sets, so I didn’t. &nbsp;The other linen store, Principe Real Enxovais is famous for its personalized and embroidered tablecloths, sheets and towels. This family run business for over 80 years has proudly outfitted many Royal and Celebrity beds and bathrooms.&nbsp; You can send them a picture of your favorite dinnerware, and they will embroider the design on the table linens. They make a very similar sheet set that I found at Paris em Lisbon but they would make a fitted sheet and duvet cover to fit the exact measurements of our mattress, which is awesome as we have a custom mattress. They ship all over the world. Worth the hike up (and down) a long, steep hill!

On the “Local &amp; Unique” Map we found an intriguing Restaurant, Santa Joana located in a historic convent that had been very recently renovated into a contemporary space yet offered Portuguese culinary traditions. &nbsp;It was up there with some of the best restaurants that we have eaten at and definitely the best meal we had in Lisbon!&nbsp; We shared the Grilled local seabass, with seaweed, Algarve cockles, Bulhão Pato sauce. I would fly to Lisbon for a weekend from Boston just to have dinner there!&nbsp; It will not be long before they earn their Michelan Star(s)!&nbsp;

On our last night, we ate at the hotel’s Sítio restaurant – a delight on every level. The décor was stunningly elegant with glossy floor tiles in hues of green and minimalist, floor-to-ceiling wooden slats which separate the tables.&nbsp; The dining room spilled out into the courtyard where we enjoyed our dinner under the soft evening light. I thoroughly enjoyed my garlic shrimp and octopus while Mr. SSO opted for the steak frites.&nbsp; Both were sophisticated yet contemporary Portuguese cuisine proudly served by a very attentive staff.

I am so grateful we decided to explore Lisbon for a weekend.&nbsp; The Portuguese are proud and kind people which makes a big difference to your time there.&nbsp; The Portuguese stores and Restaurants we visited are truly world class. Relais &amp; Chateaux’s Valverde Lisboa Hotel &amp; Garden is a true oasis of elegance and discreet luxury in the heart of Lisbon only made better by the warm, personalized and attentive service.&nbsp; I would highly recommend a visit.After the weekend in Lisbon, we were off to the Portuguese countryside to stay at another Relais and Chateaux property, L’And Vineyards.

RC Lisbon

Pendry Hotel Chicago: Historic Charm &amp; Modern Sophistication

Why ChicagoCrazy piece of minutia:&nbsp; SSO and I have the same birthday (day and month at least, only the year is different).&nbsp; On my ‘big one’, SSO planned a weekend in NYC to celebrate with our sons and their partners.&nbsp; It was fabulous and the Peninsula Hotel was an outstanding venue for the occasion. This year was SSO’s ‘big one’.&nbsp; So, we reached out to the boys suggesting several different locations to honor SSO’s Birthday including London, Paris, San Diego, NYC.&nbsp; Surprisingly to us, they came back with a different option, Chicago.&nbsp; It made sense, Chicago was a relatively easy meeting place for all of us to get to (from CO; CA, VA and MA) and easily doable for a weekend without arriving back exhausted and jetlagged. Chicago it was.&nbsp;Why AMEX Fine Resorts &amp; HotelsMy first, and only source for booking a hotel was AMEX Fine Hotels and Resorts.&nbsp; The benefits are fabulous when travelling for a weekend, especially when you need 4 rooms. Many hotels will oblige to pool the room upgrades and give us a larger suite which we can use to meet in before and after dinner or just hang out in together. &nbsp;The 2 breakfast credits/room is ample for feeding 4 big breakfast men and 3 light breakfast women.&nbsp; The early check-in is a huge bonus especially when you are arriving on the red eye from the west coast and need a few hours of sleep before feeling alive again. The late check-out is also a huge bonus especially when you are only in a city for the weekend and have a later flight on Sunday.&nbsp; These early check-ins and late checkouts facilitate getting the most out of a weekend away.&nbsp; In fact, I had looked at an Airbnb / VRBO house, but for those very reasons, we nixed that idea early on.&nbsp;Why the PendryGiven the Family was only going to be in Chicago for the weekend, we wanted to be centrally located and at a hotel we would all enjoy. I had narrowed the choice down among the Langham, the Waldorf Astoria and the Pendry and was watching their rates on AMEX for weeks before booking a hotel. &nbsp;They were fluctuating quite significantly (important to lock it in on a low especially when you are booking 4 rooms).&nbsp; When rates started to settle, it turned out that the delta between the Pendry and the Langham/Waldorf was quite significant ($150/night per room; x 3 nights x 4 rooms = $1800). &nbsp;I would be the first person to admit the Langham/Waldorf are more elegant hotels than the Pendry (more in line with the Montage, the Pendry’s more upscale sister hotel); but given the ‘use case’ (a weekend enjoying the sights of Chicago and some great meals together) and the target audience (3 young men under 30 years old and their partners), the Pendry would be just fine, in fact, what am I thinking? &nbsp;More than just fine.&nbsp; Pendry properties’ reputation and from our limited experience (see: <a href="https://karenable.com/sun-valley-tour-de-force-part-4" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Pendry Park City</a>) exude understated luxury, with interiors clad in elegant neutrals, elevated dining options&nbsp;and impeccable service; it is just more like an 8.5/10 versus a 10/10 for the Langham (see: <a href="https://karenable.com/langham-london" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">Langham London</a>)

Pendry Hotel’s LocationGiven the importance of location for this weekend’s choice of hotel, let’s start there.&nbsp; The Pendry’s location was perfect – it was literally across the river from the Langham.&nbsp; The Pendry is centrally situated off Michigan Ave, in the heart of the Chicago Loop.&nbsp; It was close to some what we wanted to see and do.&nbsp; Nearby is some of the city’s best shopping (Magnificent Mile, Oak Street, Eataly).&nbsp; Our favorite restaurants were a short walk or short UBER away (La Colonial, Roku, Armitage Alehouse. Monte Verde, Gibson’s Steak House, Indienne and Tre Dita Cucina Toscana). The Pendry is a stone’s throw from our must do/must see attractions (Chicago Riverwalk, Architectural River Boat Tour launches, Millennium Park and The Chicago Theatre).&nbsp;&nbsp;The Pendry Hotel’s Building HistoryAmazing what you learn on the Architectural River Boat Tours. When the art deco Carbide &amp; Carbon Building that houses the Pendry opened back in 1929, it was a dazzling symbol of the Jazz Age: a feast of gold leaf and dark-green terracotta that was a glittering addition to Chicago’s already skyscraper-strewn skyline. Its champagne-bottle shape was significant too — a defiant celebration of liquor in a city and a nation in the throes of Prohibition.&nbsp;The Pendry HotelThe Pendry understands the importance of their Doormen greeting guests with a warm &amp; professional welcoming.&nbsp; They were our first encounter with the hotel and set the first and lasting impression. &nbsp;These Doormen (and their counterpart Bellmen) were consistently helpful throughout our stay:&nbsp; they recognized us as we came and went; asked if we need a water or an umbrella; offered help with directions or if we needed a taxi. &nbsp;The Front Desk staff are equally well trained and very accommodating.&nbsp;The Pendry Chicago offers a unique blend of historic charm and modern sophistication. The lobby’s gilded elevators and gleaming Belgian marble scream “Roaring Twenties” — but the rooms are much more timeless. Expect stylish mid-century accents (think dark-wood dressers and low-slung leather armchairs), backdropped by sleek whitewashed walls and powder-white linens. White marble bathrooms are fitted with walk-in showers (some suites have tubs) and kitted out with chic MiN New York toiletries.&nbsp; Housekeeping is super accommodating and seem to be on every floor as whenever any of us called for more towels or coffee, they were there in a minute.

The Pendry’s signature French brasserie and cafe is called Venteux. There is of course the classic breakfast options of a choice of French pastries; wedge of Baguette with butter and jam; or yogurt, granola and fruit. There is also a full Bistro menu including Steak Frites and Moules Frites. &nbsp;Be sure to order their Duck &amp; Waffle or Croque Madame at least one morning! &nbsp;Venteux is definitely ‘Karenable’!There is a beautiful rooftop bar to catch the sunset (be sure to make reservations as even guests of the hotel can’t get a table without one). &nbsp;Bar Pendry is set off the lobby in a cozy wooden walled nook bursting with well curated contemporary art; a classic hotel bar.They cleverly convert a corner of the lobby into a complementary Coffee &amp; Tea corner in the early morning which also has a huge bowl of granny smith apples and a stack of newspapers. A nice touch, but I personally prefer the complementary, bottomless Nespresso in the room.SSO’s Birthday celebration in Chicago was fantastic.&nbsp; The Pendry Hotel was definitely Karenable and the perfect choice for our Family weekend together. Its location could not have been better, the rooms were really great, the breakfasts were fabulous, and the staff made the difference.&nbsp;

Pendry Chicago

Fairmont Miramar, Santa Monica:&nbsp; A Relaxed, Laid-Back Oasis

SSO had the opportunity to borrow a Maserati MC20 Cielo for a few days on a recent trip to LA <a href="https://ssoreport.com/maserati-mc20-cielo-review" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">(Maserati MC20 Review)</a> to visit our son and his fiancé. We decided to stay in Santa Monica where they are living and do a road trip up to Montecito.&nbsp; Given how bad the traffic can be in L.A., we wanted to be close to the kids, the highway and the beach for morning walks.&nbsp; A quick search on AMEX Fine Hotels &amp; Resorts, decision made:&nbsp; The Fairmont Miramar.&nbsp;&nbsp;We took an UBER from the Airport. Our arrival at the Fairmont Miramar was spectacularly memorable:&nbsp; we first drove through the grand black gates of the Hotel’s entrance, then drove along a cobblestone lined driveway that led to a magnificent oversize Moreton Bay fig Tree that predates the 100-year-old plus property. Awaiting us parked out front of the Fairmont sat the well-guarded and spectacular Maserati MC 20 Cielo.&nbsp;While SSO dealt with the Maserati, an army of busy lobby staff welcomed me, people handing out water bottles, assisting with luggage and walking me to the reception desk. The levels of service being doled out was incredible; check-in was efficient and professional.&nbsp; We were offered a choice between a high floor, more traditional room with an ocean view balcony in the older Palisades Wing which was built in the 1920s or a Suite in the m ore modern 10-story Ocean Tower.&nbsp; The Fairmont also has residential-style Bungalows set in the flower-filled Miramar Gardens, but they were fully booked. We opted for the more traditional room facing east to enjoy the sunrise on the balcony.&nbsp;

The traditional room was a good size with an Eames(like) chair and ottoman – so SSO felt instantly at home (I accuse him of being ‘velroed’ to our Eames chair where he does all his writing). There was a proper mini-bar fridge – empty, so we could load it up with our preferred drinks and snacks.&nbsp; The bathroom had a double sink which I prefer and marble floors.&nbsp; The closet was a decent size.&nbsp; But the best part was indeed the balcony overlooking the ocean with a view of the mountains in the distance.&nbsp; The only negatives, we had to use the service elevator most days as the main ones in our wing were out of service.&nbsp; Tin addition, the Fairmont also tacked on what I thought was a fairly ridicules and hefty daily “resort fee” to the bill.

Breakfast was served at the Fig Restaurant with a beautiful terrace surrounded by flowering bushes overlooking the pool and bungalows. The interiors at FIG Restaurant were recently redone and felt very contemporary yet traditional.&nbsp; The vibe was a relaxed Santa Monica setting. All the food uses local and organic ingredients from the nearby Santa Monica Farmer’s Market. The fruit plates were enormous and the yogurt plentiful.&nbsp; The coffee was fresh and bottomless. All in all, a lovely way to start the day.<a href="https://cna.st/h/4HmUvV4RQZcDjGPLEcNxjMDojmuWbRfXAD8GTBCFmPExmeRQCA8MXsdaBTUT8N21YsVJXPBUDMon5fiJQj7E9WyRp7Qm5YX57fgqAgdWnsux2iYUGEGY6GrYuLoYiEU1rgkg5R6Lvb3x6v2XyG5yZrEXyZQcY6RZTfDRCHKbzixXgTqHJs2XYWXwqbLK19nLAwpUZMVcqRSD1yPYu296vyYSfgX7PfM5U3G?xid=fr1734564735725aca" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow"> </a>The location was indeed perfect.&nbsp; A 5-minute drive to our son’s home, almost immediately on the highway and a stone’s throw from the beach.&nbsp; The room was very comfortable and the morning views of the sunrise across the ocean were spectacular. &nbsp;Breakfast at the Fig was consistently excellent.&nbsp; The valet service was first-rate, and they took superb care of the Maserati. &nbsp;&nbsp;I’d&nbsp; recommend The Fairmont Miramar if these are things you value in a hotel stay in Santa Monica.

Fairmont Santa Monica

Langham Hotel in London:&nbsp; Traditional Grandeur, Understated Elegance, Outstanding Service, a Quintessential London Hotel

Did you know that London, England has the greatest number of 5 Star Luxury Hotels in the World?&nbsp; London has more luxury hotels than Dubai, New York, Paris and Miami.&nbsp; No wonder it is always a challenge for me to choose where to stay when we visit London.&nbsp; But as my husband, SSO, was invited to attend the Financial Times “The Future of Cars Summit” last May (see: <a href="https://ssoreport.com/ft-future-of-the-car-2024" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">FT's Future of the Car</a>), that helped focus the area of London to start the search.&nbsp; As we were planning a kitchen renovation, being close to kitchen stores was another point to focus in my search.&nbsp; With the location chosen, it was time to research the rates &amp; specials on AMEX Fine Luxury Hotels and Resorts.&nbsp; The Langham Hotel was the perfect choice.&nbsp; It was a short walk to where the conference was being held and in the heart of the “Kitchen District”.&nbsp; Its rate was competitive with other Fine Luxury Hotels in the vicinity, and it included a $100 property credit, daily breakfast for two people, late checkout and a room upgrade (when available). The Langham is a Classic rather than Cutting Edge Hotel (see: <a href="https://karenable.com/the-londoner2" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">The Londoner</a>) and it does what it does well … really well.&nbsp; It was perfect in so many ways beyond its location.The Langham has a legendary hotel heritage dating back to 1865, when it opened as Europe’s first Grand Hotel.&nbsp; For nearly 160 years, this flagship hotel has been at the forefront of sophistication, personalized service and gracious hospitality.&nbsp; From its outset, it has occupied an unrivaled location in the heart of London, just moments from the tranquility of Regent’s Park and the buzz of Oxford Circus.&nbsp; It is truly a London icon.&nbsp;Stepping out of the taxi, a jovial, uniformed bellman immediately greeted me and offered to take my bags and escort me to the check-in.&nbsp; His professional and friendly demeanor was not lost on me, but no need as I had SSO’s room number. His offer of a bottle of cold water was greatly appreciated.

Despite being jetlagged after my red-eye flight, I could not help but notice how elegant the lobby was, I stood for a minute admiring the full grandeur of spectacular chandeliers, marble columns and tall bouquets of orchids (my favorite flower).&nbsp; The décor is best described as understated elegance.&nbsp; The vibe is refined, not showy.&nbsp; As I made my way to SSO’s room, I noticed the Langham Hotels &amp; Resorts brand’s famous soft pink hue sprinkled throughout the hotel.Upon opening the door to SSO’s room, I was pleasantly surprised by how large it was – especially for London.&nbsp; SSO had just finished making me a double expresso from the Nespresso machine – I am instantly feeling at home.&nbsp; A bit more awake now, I admired the room’s beauty and elegance. The room felt spacious and relaxing.&nbsp; SSO had placed my carry-on on the luggage rack and had opened it for me, so I started to unpack.&nbsp; I was amazed to find a proper mirrored wardrobe with proper wooden hangers – test #1, passed.&nbsp; It even had a proper ironing board, iron and a clothes steamer.&nbsp; There was also a dresser for clothes topped with a stunning bouquet of fresh cut flowers. There was a good-sized desk large enough to work at comfortably.&nbsp; Much to my surprise there was a generous bowl of fresh fruit which I came to learn was refreshed daily!&nbsp; In addition, there was a box of chocolates. The bed looked exceptionally inviting with tons of feather pillows and a big, fluffy duvet – but I had to resist the temptation even though there were black-out curtains to block the gloriously rare beaming sun.&nbsp; A walk in the sunshine was going to be a much better cure for my jetlag.A quick shower on the other hand, was the perfect jetlag tonic before heading down for breakfast. &nbsp;The bathroom was elegantly luxurious and spacious, a hallmark of traditional grandeur.&nbsp; There was a large bathtub and a separate shower, each with great water pressure and plenty of hot water (even after the morning ‘rush-hour’).&nbsp; The bathroom featured stunning marble floors, walls and sink counters.&nbsp; I always appreciate windows that open in the bathroom – it just feels cleaner with the fresh air circulating. &nbsp;I loved the scent and eminence of the Diptyque toiletries. The towels were plentiful and plush (I later learned these were replaced throughout the day if used and not just during the thorough nightly turndown service).&nbsp; The WC was a separate room – test #2, passed.&nbsp; After my shower, I emerged with a thick and cozy Frette dressing gown and joined SSO for a second double expresso.&nbsp;

The Langham offered three options for breakfast.&nbsp; Room Service of course.&nbsp; The central lobby restaurant, the Palm Court where their famous afternoon tea takes place.&nbsp; It is stunning with glamourous touches like white linen tablecloths, velvet chairs, crystal accents and even a miniature stool for a lady’s handbag. Jetlagged, we opted for the more casual setting of The Wigmore.&nbsp; Best described as a British ‘gastropub’, it serves hearty food by celebrity chef Michel Roux Jr. I loved it.&nbsp; A buffet of Staub pots filled with all the trimmings of an English Breakfast and then some.&nbsp; There was a Bloody Mary ‘buffet’ and a Champagne Cocktail ‘buffet’ to boot!&nbsp; The staff was super prompt, friendly and always had a welcoming big smile. Breakfast that morning had to win the prize for the best breakfast ever!&nbsp; Needless to say, we ended back at the Wigmore on my second morning too as it was fabulous!&nbsp; The third and last breakfast at the Langham, we enjoyed a lovely meal at The Palm Court.&nbsp; Very elegant and delicious with a sophisticated vibe.&nbsp;After breakfast on my first and second morning, SSO departed for the FT Conference and I for a walk in the sunshine to wake up and a day of kitchen. Shopping. Each evening, we met back at the Wigmore for a cocktail before heading out for dinner.&nbsp;Walking through the hotel one afternoon, I discovered, Sauce, the Langham’s culinary school.&nbsp; They offer a variety of cookery classes.&nbsp; It looked inspiring; I would love this experience – such a fun thing to do on a rainy day (lots of those in London!)

There are abundant amenities at the Langham Hotel and all looked very impressive; but I do regret not finding time to swim laps in their 52-foot pool and to explore the surrounding neighborhoods on the Langham bicycles.&nbsp;The Langham was the perfect choice for this trip.&nbsp; Its location is unrivaled.&nbsp; After nearly 160 years of hospitality grandeur, the Langham is the epitome of understated elegance and refined sophistication whether it is the Lobby or your Room. Service is superb across the board; it is slick, personal, always polite. The Breakfast choices are many and varied from ‘gastropub’ to the daintiness of a high-tea with the vast food offerings being really rather delicious.&nbsp; Next visit I will definitely be sure to also take a cooking class at Sauce, swim laps and bike the local area.