3 December 2024

Domaine Des Etangs in Massignac

SSO and I share a passion for supercars, fine food and fine hotels; ideally brought together to create an exceptional experience. As somewhat regular patrons of fine, luxury hotels, we prefer to seek out different hotels when we travel; as a cardinal rule we don’t go back to the same hotel twice. With decades of ‘training’ now, I would like to think that I have developed a ‘sommelier’s nose’ for fine, luxury hotels; at a minimum, that I have the ability to identify when a hotel is truly outstanding and exceptional and when it’s simply just great!

Our most recent trip in mid-May 2024 started in Woking, United Kingdom where McLaren kindly lent us a new McLaren 750S to drive for the week (I will let SSO share his driving experience posted:  ssoreport.com/mclaren-750s-review). As the passenger for 5 – 8 hours a day, for 6 days, I have to say it is exceptionally comfortable and can hold a shocking amount of luggage between the frunk and behind the seats (2 carry-on suitcases, 1 suit bag, I knapsack, 1 large tote bag, 1 purse and 2 jackets!)

We stayed in 3 different hotels in France over 6 days:  Ferme de Saint Simeon in Honfleur, Domaine Des Etangs in Massignac and Domaine De Primard in Guainville.  We decided to limit the number of hotels to 3 so that we could enjoy 2 days at each. We chose these hotels based on meeting 3 criteria:

1.    Fine, Luxury Hotel

2.    Michelin Gastronomic Restaurant

3.    At least 5 hours apart to enjoy the McLaren

This article will cover Domaine Des Etangs.  Ferme de Saint Simeon and Domaine de Primard will be under separate covers.

In a word, Domaine Des Etangs is outstanding, spectacular, incomparable, unsurpassed, magical, unique, sublime … truly heavenly.  I am not at all surprised that it is the # 1 hotel in France according to readers of the Condé Nast Traveler Gold List 2024.  It is no surprise that the Auberge Resorts Collection now manages Domaine Des Etangs!

About a week before we arrived, the hotel sent a questionnaire to ensure they understood our needs and wants (still or sparkling water in our room, feather or foam pillows, if we had any allergies, to confirm our lunch and dinner reservations, expected time of arrival… ).  This is a small gesture but had a big impact.  The only other hotel that I have been to that did this was the Four Seasons Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru – theirs was so extensive it even specified favorite drinks, fruit … and requested your picture.  When you arrived by sea plane, they greeted you by name and a glass of your favorite.  Nice touch.

What was to be  5 hour drive from La Ferme Saint Simeon to Domaine des Etangs turned out to be a  7-hour drive. A few French specialties added a couple of hours to our travels: 

1. Trying to find a gas station that was

a) Open on a Monday morning

b) Open and still had gas after a long weekend.

2. Detours through small towns driving opposite large tractor trailers on narrow windy roads due to highway construction

3. Multiple toll booths that required stopping and getting out of the right-hand drive car to get the ticket / pay at the left side toll booth inside of a narrow track.

Domaine de Etangs is literally in the middle of nowhere.  You drive small two-way “D” roads (In the US, these would be one lane, one-way streets!) for at least an hour after getting off the highway.  If you are looking for lots to do within an hour or so of the hotel including a choice of restaurants to go to and stores to shop in … I would not recommend this hotel. If you are seeking peace and tranquility, this place is your heaven. I am not judging; I am simply acknowledging so one can make wise choices. 

Upon arrival, our bags are whisked away in a little electric Citroen to our farmhouse, Le Licorne. The bags were not left just inside the door to the room but were put upstairs in the bedroom, open and resting on luggage racks with the suit bag hanging. The Citroen returned and we were given its keys. I thought that they had a typo on their website when they said that you will have a car for your stay.  I thought they meant to write cart – like a golf cart.  But no – they meant to say car!  A little electric Citroen ours for the duration of our stay.  Sweet!

First things first.  We were walked through the inside of this special 11th Century Chateau, accompanied by a very knowledgeable young woman who was able to give us a guided tour complete with its relevant history.  Just incredible; the website and other reviews do not do Le Domaine Des Etangs justice.  I now understand what she meant when she said the hotel can be fully occupied and you may not see another guest except at meals!  It is vast with several magnificent rooms to lounge in. I am trying to remember just how many common rooms there were; there was one with a grand piano, another with a harp and a grand fireplace, one with an honor bar, another with miniature furniture mirroring the adult sofa’s and chairs; one with the planets as ceiling lights and book shelf after bookshelf filled with books on the solar system; one with ‘real dandelion lights’ – no idea how they made them but certainly impressive and another with very large pieces of art.  We were not able to access the Breakfast room as it was occupied with a private meeting. Every room was absolutely spotless, not a speck of dust anywhere, windows so clean you could walk into them, the stone floors were squeaky clean and every pillow was perfectly fluffed; yet you felt right at home and would be perfectly comfortable lounging there as you would be in the comfort of your own home.

The Attic was an unexpected gem. It was filled with comfortable, oversized furniture, with part of it set up as a games room with billiards and foosball for the adults and part set up as a children’s playroom with treasure chests filled with costumes, games, and puppets. It was massive – the entire footprint of the chateau filled with potential fun!  Bring it on!

Located in the old cellars of the chateaux is a heated indoor swimming pool (35°C) open 24 hours a day.  It is accessed from both the gardens outside that run alongside the river and from inside the Chateau.  It is surrounded on one side by floor to ceiling glass windows & doors enabling you to gaze out to the roses and trees beyond and on the other side by a series of thermal baths.  It is set up perfectly to swim then relax (or vice versa) on the wide lounges at the end of the pool (or outside on a nice day).  I was grateful for the information about the thermal baths.  They have a succession of hammams and steam baths according to the Roman tradition, going from hot to lukewarm, then cold to optimize the benefits of the treatment through 'water’. Temperatures range from 50° (122°F) in the hottest steam room to 7°C (45°F) in the cooling alcove to allow muscles to completely relax and all tension to release.  There are lockers for your belongings, washrooms, and showers.  There is water to drink, loads of towels, Sothy’s of Paris shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and hair dryers.  I was pleasantly surprised how clean and ‘mold free’ the entire pool and thermal baths were – especially given the water /moisture everywhere.

A stone's throw from the castle is the Dairy, a dedicated exhibition hall which hosts  innovative artists’ work.  Above the main exhibition hall is the library, or ‘La Laiterie’ which has two mezzanine spaces. One is the library of the past, which brings together books published before 1920; the other, the library of the future, intended for books dating from after 1920. Upholstered leather sofas, perfectly oriented lighting, shelves overflowing with fascinating and unusual volumes. A private sanctuary of sorts.

Les Domaine de Etangs has 17 unique Guest Rooms, Suites and Farmhouses. Not only is each unique and different to the others but they are also unlike any hotel room / suite / cottage you have ever stayed at.  There are 7 rooms and large suites upstairs in the Chateau each named after a star and they range in size from 38m² for the Prestige Rooms to147m² for the Signature Suite, Venus. There are 4 additional suites in the ‘Longere’ Building (a long farmhouse adjacent to the Chateau where the restaurant and reception are), each named after a season and these range in size from 63m² to 85m². There are 6 farmhouses scattered across the 2,500-acre estate which range from 1 to 5 bedrooms (from 104m² to 393m²) in size. The one thing they all have in common is the 11th Century stone walls (and for many units, stone floors too) with the interior stunningly decorated in a combination of antique furniture & contemporary fashion that just works beautifully.

 We were escorted to our one-bedroom country farmhouse, Le Licorne, about a mile from the Chateau by another little Citroen showing us the way.  It was a stunning drive through the countryside of the estate. The local prized Limousin cattle were everywhere. As it had been raining quite heavily, the streams and ponds were overflown and there were a few ‘drive through’s – we prayed the electric battery was well sealed!  The road through the estate is well marked on iron signs by the roadside. When we arrived, Licorne was like a romantic home away from home, the old stone walls of the farmhouse felt instantly inviting and calming. 

Our little farmhouse had everything we needed for a relaxing and peaceful 2 days. The kitchenette was perfect for preparing snacks; there was a little refrigerator for storing wine, water and cheese. There was an induction stovetop, sink, and a coffee maker which grinds the beans fresh for each cup (like our Jura at home). There were plates, cutlery, glasses, and coffee cups for 3. While we didn’t use the large dining table it certainly invites dining in with meals prepared by the Domaine chefs or yourself if you felt so obliged. The large antique armoire stored 3 bike helmets (there are plenty of bikes for use if you didn’t want to drive or walk and a large map of the property you can fold up and tuck into your pocket), a safe, umbrellas, and lots of shelves and hangers for your outdoor things. The bathroom was complete with robes, lots of towels, gorgeous Sothy’s of Paris hand soaps, lotions, shampoo and conditioner. There was a large window looking out to more cows! In the living room, a deep L-shaped sofa was perfectly placed in front of the oversize stone fireplace with a fire set and ready to be lit.  Outside there was a private garden with views of the Château. It was perfect for lingering chats over morning coffee and evening cognac.  The bedroom was upstairs nestled under a slanted ceiling of wooden beams, there was also a nook with a sofa, chairs, cozy blanket and a TV. One nitpicky thing, it would be nice to have more plugs by the bed to plug in your iPhone.  The loft looked down to the living room. For a couple looking to get away from it all, Licorne is a haven of peace and tranquility.  Everywhere you look, you see and experience the beauty of this unspoiled countryside.

Dyades is the estate’s main restaurant. The décor is a balance between the rustic stone walls and fireplace and the contemporary refinement of the table décor, plated with Bernard Daud the finest local porcelain (the factory is nearby in Limoges).  If the weather permits, guests can dine on the terrace to revel in the relaxing countryside with the most beautiful picture-postcard views. The menu is inspired by the freshest seasonal produce which is handpicked daily in the estate’s spiral-shaped organic garden (do join the weekly tour!), then prepared to perfection in the château’s kitchens. Other ingredients, like Fois Gras and Limousin Beef don’t travel far as they are sourced from local producers.  The culinary enchantments are traditional French cuisine infused with a modern approach to dining and a touch of rural charm. The Gastronomic menu is only offered Wednesday to Saturday evenings. The Bistronomic menu is served Monday to Sunday for lunch and Sunday to Tuesday for dinner (exclusively for guests).  SSO and I shared the Fois Gras (the best we have ever had!) and a humungous piece of Limousin beef cooked perfectly!  For lunch we enjoyed the best limousine beef hamburger with local bacon and cheese and the best French fries, they were to die for.  Their secret so we were told is they are double cooked in Limousin beef fat! But we must go back to enjoy their Gastronomic dinner!

Breakfasts are served in the Monade located in the Chateau.  The simple and hearty breakfast is served in a friendly and casual atmosphere.  Freshly squeezed juices are plentiful as are the sampling of home-made bread and breakfast sweets (French toast or crepes with local syrup). Local cheeses and hams pair well with the fresh local eggs cooked any style on the stove in the buffet room. Worth getting out of bed for! 

Domaine Des Etangs is a unique place.  Each stone, each roof has been carefully restored according to tradition.  This is balanced with a great variety of the contemporary works of art and design. It is a quiet and peaceful place which brings together yesterday and tomorrow in an everlasting present.

We almost did not go to the next hotel we had booked; Domaine De Primard as Domaine Des Etangs was so exceptional we did not want to leave! But we will break our cardinal rule and come back … soon; hopefully mid-late September.  Why?

1.    Because we just loved it so, so much and are so, so happy and tranquil there.

2.    Because there is so, so much we didn’t do but wanted to:

a.    Gastronomic meal

b.    Swim and lounge by the outdoor pool

c.     SSO to row me around in the boat on the river

d.    Picnic by the river

e.    Play tennis on the ‘floating’ court,

f.      Massage in the spa – Winner of the ‘Best Country Spa Hotel’ in the World

g.    Lounging by one of the several outdoor fire pits

h.    Discovering the Domaine by bike and by walking

3.    Because the autumn foliage will be spectacular, to enjoy while we forage for mushrooms and chestnuts for the chef to cook up into something special.

Nous nous souviendrons toujours.  Nous reviendrons.